Using two regulators?

[Bufficus]

To all those with proper electrical knowledge please forgive me if this is a stupid question but.....

Following on from the Pathfinder spot thread.....

Would it be possible to split the yellow from the stator (BGM 120 watt?) to feed two separate regulators?

One to power the standard lights and one to power a single spot?

[byron]

sorry, can't answer your question, but would be interested in the reply.
but I don't think you'll achieve any more power than the stator can already make...
I have split the output from the stator; currently running the original regulator that came with the electronics kit and a rectifier to provide 12v DC for my tacho. not sure if this is exactly the best plan, but it does work [albeit I'm still playing with zenor diodes to get the required constant voltage from the rectifier]

[firekdp]

Byron is correct that two wouldn't give any more power out, what it would do is double the amount of power it could dump. So two 80W regs would be equal to a 160W. This was recommended when frequent failure of the old zener diode occurred (more likely due to inneficient cooling than overloading).

[joespeed]

straight and easy answer,NO.
if the out put is 80 watts,imagine this as a light bulb in your house and that is the maximum you can light up by connecting to two switches (regulators) even if they didnt overload then the second 80 watt bulb will make the other bulb dimmer,ever noticed this when you switch on the kettle the lights dip,or when the compressor kicks in the lights dim dip,
need more output, need more output!
regards
joe

[J1MS]

Just wire the spot light through a reed relay using the power from the head light main beem as a trigger for the relay, taking power directly to the relay from the battery via a fuse. its quite easy to do and it saves over loading the std switch gear and that way the only time you use the spot light it would come on with the main beam and switch off when you dip the head light. someone on here could probably post a quick how to guide and diagram if you asked im sure. broady and reed speed both do a 260 watt system that are worth looking at for powering the extra lighting and anything else you might want to wire in.... I know this is a bit off topic but I thought it might help... All the best

[Bufficus]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I knew I was clutching at straws with this. But I was trying not to use a battery because of the space issue. It's a TS1 so no tray and the original tool box is small enough already without a battery in there. Hey ho, needs must.

I wish someone could explain the benefits of the BGM stators.

[MarkH]

I wish someone could explain the benefits of the BGM stators.

2x the price, 100x the quality.

that's the real benefit anyway. i'm not sure where this idea of being able to run additional lights came from. the quality is far and away superior to anything coming out of india.

[byron]

I have not completely ruled out fitting a battery along with a Vespa regulator. You can quite small, sealed batteries that can be fitted anyway up.
eg from here http://www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Motor ... eries.html
as i have relocated my electrics between the tank and toolbox, i was planning on making up a box to go on the rear frame strut.
I still might, I'm almost at the point of giving up on rectifying my AC...

[J1MS]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I knew I was clutching at straws with this. But I was trying not to use a battery because of the space issue. It's a TS1 so no tray and the original tool box is small enough already without a battery in there. Hey ho, needs must.

I wish someone could explain the benefits of the BGM stators.

If you want to find the real Wattage avaiable from any stator you have to measure the voltage drop. This is measured with a known varying load being applied and the engine reving usually at your normal running revs mines 6000 rpm cruising speed. when the charging voltage from the stator drops as the load increases, then you can work out the maximum wattage available. For the stator to drop its voltage below the charged battery level, then it has already exceeded its potential, if the charging voltage drops much below 13.6 volts then this is usually its maximum viable continuous load and nearly all the Lambretta dc stators I have tested struggle to achive much above 100 watts. but the new three phase stators easily exceed this. Most charging circuits dc (charging with a light load or no load applied)are at around 14.4 volts. when the voltage drops to the batterys own voltage 12.6 then the charge is negative and the stator is no longer charging and the batterys own power is now being drained instead of being charged..... I know some one on here can explain it better than me....But I tried

[Monty]

Going back to the 70's when we had no money I had 3 spots on my old 6 volt series 2. I had no battery It was cut out of the loom, the rectifier was buggered and the connection for all cables was a 10amp common lighting junction box. I had mates who had up to 6 spots, OK the more you had the dimmer they went but they all ran off the staor as was.
Again I say bypass the regulator and see what it will run it may blow bulbs if you only have the headlight on but maybe we can see what load the BGM will handle. Maybe we should start to return them to our suppliers if they will not output 120W