Scooterotica

Currently I've been using a centre spring with std springs, but at high rev's getting slight clutch slip

Tried the centre spring with MBD uprated springs but was having a nightmare with drag and very hard to pull in lever. Consequently causing problems with bell housing, see

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8596

so what springs do you all recommend

How many plates are you using and what type? Which crown wheel do you have, does the pressure plate have a spindle that slides into the xmas tree? Which spider are you using? What thickness are the steels and the top plate?
Sorry for all the questions, but they all affect the performance of the clutch, simply changing and stiffening your clutch may not solve your clutch slip.

Using std set up - 4 surflex 'b' plates

Innocenti spider.

I was using bell housing without spindle, but have just obtained one with spindle (which fits into cluster/xmas tree)

I haven't measured the steels apart from the top steel which is 2.5mm

The crownwheel is a non spring 46t, it has also been machined to allow silghtly more depth

The spindle is probably not doing you any favours as it can restrict the plates releasing. Try to get a new bell/pressure plate from AF, can't remember the name but if you ask for the one used with a Foxhat spider they'll know what you mean, as this is fee moving and it's cheap. Also ensure your aprings are straight and not banana shaped and flat and square on the top and bottom. Steel thickness is also important as this will also affect the amount of plate release too.

Have to disagree there Mike I think the spindle set up works best as it prevents any tilt and therefore dragging.
Celt you don't say whether you are using a GP or LI/sx type chaincase.
The gp one works fine with the nonspindle pressure plate but the LI type often gives problems unless you use the spindle type pressure plate.
A set up that I've used with success is to use uprated springs with std Vespa springs over the top. This gives extra spring pressure but with a useable lever.

Al, my theory is that it's another part to snag or not run true and hence disrupt the movement of plates, fine if everything is running true with decent quality springs and even pressure applied and the plate is going in and out squarely and of course the spindle is straight.
Looking at the link I think this is Li as the other post has a nipple on the pressure plate.

measured steels today, they are inbetween 1.51mm and 1.58mm

casing is LI

Springs are all straight, level and ground.

Put everything back today with slightly weaker springs. Clutch still a bit stiff to use.

Hardly having any play in clutch lever when selecting gear, jumping forward slightly :flaming:
If I adjust the clutch much more on adjuster block I'm afraid of the clutch actuater arm touching the nipple, causing welding of nipple again.

any ideas

celt wrote: any ideas

Yes Richie lad, get yourself a Vespa!!

cable routing or not using a nylon lined cable or uneven height springs

joeythescooterboy wrote:

celt wrote: any ideas

Yes Richie lad, get yourself a Vespa!!

Over my dead body Joey

mark wrote:cable routing or not using a nylon lined cable or uneven height springs

Cable is routed correctly and using a nylon line cable. As I said before springs are the same hight and ground on either end. Thanks for the input though