Scooterotica

About to get them welded on. Have temporarily put in fork links and dampers and fixed upper brackets to dampers. Measured the 23.5cm. as per Sticky's book. Now I want them to look parallel to the fork legs from front on and from side on, as I did on me other scooter with no problem, but carefully looking from both views, the only way I can do this is to build up some weld to fill the gap twixt bracket and fork leg, else they are going to look cock eyed/slanting from one view or the other. I have them on the right way with the angled part of the bracket against the fork leg. Help! (Brackets got from very reputable dealer)

thats normal im doing a set tommorow for soulsurfer.... well it is on the last 4 sets i did

also have you got a lower buffer fitted or an approx gap .... i always fit a hub as well this ensures the links are parellel

if you look here they dont look parallel from the side
http://www.lcgb.co.uk/workshop/fdampers.html

Yes, I know about the L**B site picture Steve, and they look shite like that. What exactly do you mean by 'normal' ? Do you mean building up some weld first, and then welding on the brackets? On my other scoot I was able to get the brackets welded on with the dampers looking parallel from both front and side view. No I haven't got a bottom buffer in yet and wasn't going to till the forks were finished. Just got the fork link with the two big dished washers either side and the fork link bolt. Any more advice greatfully received.

i normally put a 2 mm packer under mine if needed the lugs on the links could if poss be filled or ground down but not to much as the stud wont go the full depth. i made those links on a jig that was made from a set of disc links so they should be as near as its possible to be but each link can vary slightly the last few sets of top brackets dont seem to have as much crank in them as in the past so they dont stick out as far i could rebend them but dont have any heat here so its not easy , if you shorten the lug on the link remember to reccess it slightly as the damper pin has a none threaded shoulder for about 1mm a flat 300mm file soon gets these down when i do them its always a combination of things to get them right
remeber to brace the forks or put a 12mm bar through the link holes to stop the fork bending and dont remove it till its cold anyway get back to work you slacker

Should have got you to do 'em Steve, as it appears you have the expertise

man u wanna see the problems ive got with this set

I have found that instead of using the typical shouldered link stud, which pushed the lower end of the damper away from the fork link you can just use a stud thats 7mm one end and 6mm the other.
Screw the 7mm into the fork link as far as you can with the double nut method. Then slide on a "penny" washer then your damper......its looks alot neater and lines up with your top brackets more oftern than not.
Terry White at Rapid Industrial Fasteners can supply these studs.
Worth a go?

soullad wrote:I have found that instead of using the typical shouldered link stud, which pushed the lower end of the damper away from the fork link you can just use a stud thats 7mm one end and 6mm the other.
Screw the 7mm into the fork link as far as you can with the double nut method. Then slide on a "penny" washer then your damper......its looks alot neater and lines up with your top brackets more oftern than not.
Terry White at Rapid Industrial Fasteners can supply these studs.
Worth a go?

Just been up 't workshop having a look at this again over a fag/coffee, and was thinking of that. Do you have a contact number for Terry?