Hi all,
Trying to remove my fork link bolts and am extremely frustrated/ confused.
It *seems* as if the bolts turn freely, and there is a tiny bit of lateral play, so I assumed they weren't seized. But they will not budge when I try to tap them through. I guess that they are actually seized into the bushing, which is moving and turning with the bolt - or does that sound like bullshit?
Have sprayed a lot of WD40 in there but not fully soaked them.
Note: I haven't tried the vice option in Sticky's book yet because I don't have a vice and bench set up at the moment. Any other options?
Thanks in advance,
Dan
Fork link bolt removal - WTF?
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Yes it sounds like they are siezed in the bushes
A combination of heat, lube and hammer is usually enough but at a push i have drilled them out in the past.
Time consuming and frustrating but you'll get there.
A combination of heat, lube and hammer is usually enough but at a push i have drilled them out in the past.
Time consuming and frustrating but you'll get there.
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- TheSeeker
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Mine required a lot of heat but I think it was the expansion/cooling/expansion/cooling that finally separated the bolt from the bush.Angry Bloke wrote:Yes it sounds like they are siezed in the bushes
A combination of heat, lube and hammer is usually enough but at a push i have drilled them out in the past.
Time consuming and frustrating but you'll get there.

Be careful if you try a vice, I broke mine putting too much leverage on the handle.

After breaking the vice I rigged this up :-

Several minutes of heat and then soak in PlusGas then try and tighten the clamp. Repeat all afternoon. As horrible jobs go this one is second only to removing the bottom steering race.
Best regards
Ben
- TheSeeker
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Oh yes, good one. Especially if you did like me and welded the upper damper brackets on without removing the links and springs. The melted plastic is really hard to get out.Toddy wrote:Or getting the plastic top hats out of LI forks with a welding rod when they are stuck in![]()
Top tip. Rebuild your forks before you respray!! I'm going to have to find a matching touch up paint for my GP as I've scraped paint off the forks with the spring compressor.
Ben
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I have also seen it happen whereby's the side spacer washers cut a small groove into the bolt, making it nearly impossible to remove. If I recall, I think I removed the bolt head and tried to remove from the other direction.
That's not going anywhere...
- soulsurfer
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Be carful not to bend the bottom of the forks if using hammers etc.
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If you get an old 1Litre plastic milk carton and cut a piece out, it fits very snugly over your forks so the fork spring compressor doesn't scratch your shiny new paintwork. I had a photo once, but must have deleted itTheSeeker wrote:Oh yes, good one. Especially if you did like me and welded the upper damper brackets on without removing the links and springs. The melted plastic is really hard to get out.Toddy wrote:Or getting the plastic top hats out of LI forks with a welding rod when they are stuck in![]()
Top tip. Rebuild your forks before you respray!! I'm going to have to find a matching touch up paint for my GP as I've scraped paint off the forks with the spring compressor.
Ben


Compact Toolbox Flywheel Holder
mmm is that why there bentsoulsurfer wrote:Be carful not to bend the bottom of the forks if using hammers etc.

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- TheSeeker
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That's a good idea. I might have thought of something similar eventually but I was too excited after painting it and wanted to get all back together as soon as I could.dapper wrote: If you get an old 1Litre plastic milk carton and cut a piece out, it fits very snugly over your forks so the fork spring compressor doesn't scratch your shiny new paintwork. I had a photo once, but must have deleted it![]()
Ben