Scooterotica

How much can I open out the transfers on my engine block (to match an Imola kit ) and still get a good seal?
How many millimeters of metal do I need to leave so I won't get problems?
Cheers Nick

Ive only built a couple of Imolas and these were the old version, but I opened the case out & matched to the transfers with no problems.
The transfer wall on the mag side is best blended with the mag flange and gasket in place, as this will even the flow to both sides of the barrel.
Group 4 & 3 race scooters will use every mm of space and probably have a sealing face of probably not more than 2mm in places, but the more metal thats left the better for a road scooter... If you thin out the transfer wall of the crankcase too much on the mag side they can crack at the mag housing gasket face, but this is normally more comon with heavily ported 200 cases...
I try to keep around 3mm or more for a good seal, I hardly ever use base gaskets or head gaskets, and seal using gasket goo of one type or another...

be very aware of fitting imolas,because not every crankcase can accomodate these...

sean brady scooters wrote:be very aware of fitting imolas,because not every crankcase can accomodate these...

Spanish 150 casing, or Indian 150 is probably best, but the ones ive done were on Italian series 3, 150 casings.

wasnt Imola one of hitlers crew?

Thanks for the replies.
I went for the Imola because I wanted to keep the original DL150 engine block but have a fast scooter.
I an going to use a crank with a 110mm conrod and a 3mm packing plate so I was wondering about taking the transfers in the block out to the safe maximum and then kind of flaring the packing plate so it matches the Imola transfers. Hope that makes sense. Any thoughts on that anyone?

I think you have made the job of matching the cases alot easier, IMO using the pack piece its much better to make things blend...

tony wrote:wasnt Imola one of hitlers crew?

well i thought it was funny....