Scooterotica

Now i have the scoot in bits thought i would turn my attentions to the headset. so im wondering what improvments new bits of kit are out there and worth trying. Bug bears that i have always had are sticky throttle and gear slop...

Im going to put one of MBs new speedos in when there on the market (anyone know when that is?) so not bothered about that at the moment. What suggestions have people got for sticky throttle, i think Knowledge has a new lined throttle cable jobby that he sells, anyone tried these and do theywork? What about welding up the rods into the slotted end ala sticky, does this work, any drawbacks?
I have a S3 Li so it has the brass rollers, are the plastic ones better or worse? I know ill have to change the rods if i go that way.

Any suggestions hints greatly accepted

sef

I would change the two nylon bushes that the rods go through.
Take off the throttle tube and sand off any rust then regrease

replace the small collar on the gear change side

I would also weld the handle bar rods - this takes out a lot of slack

You are probably better off with the brass rollers than the plastic ones

I think scooter restorations sell a handle bar refurb kit

Cheers,

Dryballs

What about SLJ's quick action throttle? Great bit of Kit

dryballs ta for that, will try all of them. CPH tell me more about the quick action. Is it internal or external?

Ta
Sef

Johns Fast action throttle wheel is internal fits like a normal throttle wheel great bit of kit

Toddy

How do you find the quick action to use on a day to day basis. Is it for really quick acceleration revvy action or is it user friendly when tootling about?

Ta

sydduckett wrote:How do you find the quick action to use on a day to day basis. Is it for really quick acceleration revvy action or is it user friendly when tootling about?

Ta

Really good... they are machined so that the first half opens the throttle slower than the second half of the turn if that makes sense?

Yes, I recommend SLJ's QA throttle wheel. The throttle wheel is shaped like a cam. As the spring in the carb tightens-up, the wheel is able to apply more force to overcome the spring, as well as pulling more cable to open the throttle quicker. It has no adverse effect on around town use, and will not catch you out.

I also always use splined throttle rods and brass or ali wheels for the gear cables, and replace or refurbish the swivel, see-saw and tie rod on top of the engine. I cut off the top of the gear selector arm and weld-on an M6 bolt and secure the selector arm to the tie rod with a nyloc. This removes slop and aids strip-down time.

I also fit an RD350 clutch lever and nylon-lined clutch cable. This is a huge improvement.

Knowledge, dont you sell the lined cables at the mo?

sef

Ive just bought a cheap set up and had the bars re drilled and taped out and fitted allen key grub screws, I had to take of 2mm of the bush that goes inside the handlebar and used metal gear and throttle wheels bought off corrado, this now fits snug with no slop what so ever on both sides..very happy with the outcome, just remains to be seen over time if the plastic bush in the handlebars wears? maybe something David Blythe could play with..?.