Scooterotica

Special X wrote:
Campag brakes were made in France not Italy.

GOOGLE - very first hit

http://www.campagnolo.com

The official Campagnolo web site - Bicycle Parts and Components ...
The official Campagnolo web site. Italian manufacturer of cycling components, industry leader in the manufacturing of bicycle components and accessories.

Not saying you are wrong SpecialX, only that your past form on issues like this is not immaculate :biggrin:

Fat bloke down pub told me, must be true

Hi, myself and a local scooter shop dealer have fitted the Scoot RS inboard disc brakes, his was a disc link one fitted to his own GP, mine is a Drum link type fitted to my GP. The one thing that we found wrong with both is : The inner top hat spacer is too thick thus preventing the two halfs of the assembly sitting together correctly thus the adjustment etc will be wrong, we had to reduce the thickness of the larger diameter end roughly by half. The pads are awful and possibly dangerous, Newfren sintered pads are a well spent £20. On mine the anti rattle circlip has been removed as per racing modification mentioned in Stcky's bible as the disc would not centre easily. Finally my drilled disc may well be warped from new, will see when properly up and running. I also fitted an MB speedo drive as a matter of course. These units seem to work well when fettled and seem to accept the original type spares so should be easy to keep going. Hope this helps, ride safe guy's.

Andy

if i was after a discbrake i would go and buy an original one off ebay ive had 2, no problems with them at all plus they will hold their value

I found that the quality of the ScootRS casting isn't anywhere near as good as they claim on their website, judge for yourself...



If ScootRS wish to quote this on their website, please feel free

joey wrote:...had drum brakes that you could skid front wheel and my current standard gp disc locks up if required....secret is set them up right...recomend strong outer cable the square/flat guage wire not the round springy type....reverse pull....newfren copper coloured pads...
drum brakes fade on hard fast baking...useless
most hydraulics are too fearce for street lambrettas...imo

i agree with joey in respect to hydraulic brakes. they are agreat for the race track but too fierce for good riding on ten inch wheels with very little surface area contact, a locked up brake is an accident in itself not an aid in an emergancy with a split second to take action. my campag front disc on my gp locks up at road speed, anybody who says theyre s**t should go on a basic mechanics course or just shut the f@@k up on mechanical issues. innocenti engineers were not idiots they were perfectionists. if you can get it set up correctly its because you're doing it wrong. my disc has saved my life on loads of occaisions and thanks to learning about correct cables and settings i dont need a stupid hydraulic comfort blanket, also i can drive a scooter without hitting anything and that helps. as an engineer i agree with the scoots RS guy never, never, NEVER sandcast a hub; anybody daft enough to do it and pilot a TS1 or Rb kit down the M1 with blow holes in a cast front hub would be brave enough to get in the ring with Mike tyson and call his mother a slag before hand.

Can't argue with that.

My original disc is good enough to lock the rollers up on an MOT. I've been glad of it on occasion.

I have just fitted the scootrs cable operated disc and I am struggling to get it working to an acceptable level....
1. I have fitted a scooter restorations heavy duty disc brake cable and a reverse pull set up.
2. I complained about the weedy spring on the actuator supplied with the brake and new improved actuator was sent foc.

How I have,set it up...
1. With the cable completely released I wound in the static disc adjuster and then backed it off until just in clearance then locked it off.
2. Adjusted the cable until it just starts to cause a resistance and then backed off until just in clearance.

Result
I am able to pull the hand lever all the way to the hand grip which causes a light braking effect but would certainly not stop you in a hurry.....pretty disappointed so far, am I missing something?
Also even with the improved actuator with increased spring pressure the cable does not fully return with the first part of the actuator movement being very soft....I tried to fit an original innocenti actuator but could not get the circling to locate for the full circumferance, the original looked a slightly heavier gauge construction but I guess it may have been slightly distorted.

I have read elsewhere that another uk manufacturers actuator can help solve the problem but I don't feel that I should be shelling out for that.....

Would deepening the dimples that the balls sit in help give more linear movement per same rotational movement of the lever....that seems to be the problem I have

Any advice appreciated

I have read that scootopia do a very good actuator no experiance of it myself just passing on info

shocky wrote:I have read that scootopia do a very good actuator no experiance of it myself just passing on info

Yes they are the ones I was referring to, which I think may help with the return issue but not so sure about the physical movement of the actuator (the reason the brake doesn't operate properly). I looked again at my reverse pull set up last night, and noted;
1. For approx. first 50% of lever pull I can see proportional movement at the actuator.
2. for the second approx. 50% movement of the hand lever I can see some distortion/ ringing of the cable and a resulting maybe 10% of movement of the actuator.

The cable is pretty short with a slight curve into the actuator but I can see I can remove a few inches of outer cable to make that routing straighter still, would that make so much difference?

My next thought is;
With a standard thickness front brake cable any cable distortion is likely to be mostly on the outer cable, as I have already witnessed, so with the thicker inner cable is this situation likely to be magnified ie thicker inner cable versus similar construction coiled outer cable....what do you think, has the thicker cable potentially made things worse?

Is anyone able to post up a picture of the cable shape/curve on a reverse pull set up that actually works so I can compare mine before cutting my new cable any further?

As mentioned in my response above, there seems to be a lot of 'lost motion' on my actuator due to the circlip groove being poorly machined although the lever does actually return as it should. I'm experimenting with some packing shims behind the actuator to take up the slack.