Scooterotica

Hiya - introduced myself and promised a build thread. This might not be frequent but let's start...

Scottish registered late S1/early S2 frame. Bought this as a basket case probably 15 years ago. Haven't restored a Lambretta before so some pointers would be useful. I have restored my MG Midget about three times (owned that for 25 years) so am used to 'making things fit'. It came with front guard (crap - made in 3 pieces - sold it), horncast (good, Innocenti - kept), Side panels (original but very rough - sold) and headset upper and lower (good, kept, but controls rusted on and quite pitted). Also got an LI150 engine in the deal which looks like it hasn't ever been cracked open.

I did all of this at length with my MG Midget rebuild years ago - does this pic work?

https://postimg.cc/Z0WCDTG1

Obviously I've bought decent leggies front guard and side panels. Frame was very rotten in weird places, like it had either been under water or maybe been stored for a long time under sheets that held water/outside? Loop was rusted through on top flange edges and on rear box section between panel handles. Repaired both - didn't realise you could get a complete piece to sort the latter, and completely rusted out on front lower corners of loop behind/next to bridge piece.

That's better - not sure how I did that. Anyway, it's late and I'm off down the pub with the Mrs...

Start of the questions - assume these little nicks out of the lower corners of re-made side panels aren't original and I'll have to make up little repairs and weld them in?

I've kept the chrome ring on as a reference point - do S2 leggies all step in below the ring or should the throat be deeper and be flush with the back edge of the ring?

However the main issue I've got is that when I offer up the side panels and footboards I've got a hell of a gap at the bottom of the panels.

This is the gap on the kickstart side - I've got the beading installed on the flange but the footboard is flat on the crossmember and rear stay.

If I pack up the footboard it needs to go so high that I run out of thread on the rear runners. I've bought some threaded M5 (M4?) sleeves so could extend them(as below), but not ideal as it messes with the leggies as well and I'll have to put probably 10mm of packing under the main and front crossmembers to keep the floor level front to back..





Any ideas - this is the main thing I've got to decide on before I start repairing the front end of the loop and doing a proper dry build.

how does it fit without the rubber on ? some rubbers are a lot thicker than others.

MrMac wrote: ↑Sat Aug 24, 2019 6:12 pm If I pack up the footboard it needs to go so high that I run out of thread on the rear runners. I've bought some threaded M5 (M4?) sleeves so could extend them(as below), but not ideal as it messes with the leggies as well and I'll have to put probably 10mm of packing under the main and front crossmembers to keep the floor level front to back..





Any ideas - this is the main thing I've got to decide on before I start repairing the front end of the loop and doing a proper dry build.

I had this issue with a series 2, u sorted it by cutting the metal plate next to the fuel tank, then cutting the supports on the hoop that where the coil fits, I used I thin blade in my grinder so it was only a thin slit, then I pushed the loop down at the rear, it just flexed at the front where the toolbox door is, and closed the gap to make it look better, a lot of faffing about but makes the end result look a lot better, thicker rubbers under the runners can help a bit too, good luck, and keep the picks coming, oh yeah the chrome ring looks just as it should.

Did a few hours in the heat this evening - rear runner edge profile wasn't right - too shallow/pointed so cut a slot and a wedge out and fandangled it back together...







Fits better now - although I'll probably be chopping it off to fit an expansion pipe...