
The stand seems to be the worst culprit . its an aftermarket chrome jobbie and looks the nutts but the blasted thing is so loose that it makes a helluva racket.
Has anyone got any tips to pass on that might quieten this item
No it doesn't actually . Its an aftermarket piece of junk with no stop spigot.dapper wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 10:28 am When off the stand, does it have the rubber bump stop on the small spigot to prevent it from rattling against the underside of the runner board? Do you have the strengthening plates between the V of the centre stand brace? Is the stand spring tensioned correctly or has it stretched. Do you have the rubber grommets between all metal surfaces, ie. runner boards to frame legs, between legshields and frame struts, etc. Is you tool box door tight when locked or is it loose and rattles? All these are common noise issues.
thanks WT No1 that sounds like an excellent solution .......pity you haven't a piccyWarkton Tornado No.1 wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2019 11:03 pm Because of the original welds getting weak on my SX & the whole thing leaning @ a jaunty angle, I tried to devise an interim repair not involving a strip down & welding.
(This had the knock-on effect of limiting the space available for the stand to rotate, so it is now stiff, but doesn’t rattle).
I had some kitchen wall cabinet mounting rail left over which I cut to fit & align with the existing frame stand member holes & mounted it so that the horizontal part of the stand would run in the ‘U’ section.
I used countersink screws (M8, I think) with loads of Waxoyl & fixed it on.
It pulled the frame stand cross members in line & is amazingly strong.
I will try & post a picture or twojohnny650 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 10:09 amthanks WT No1 that sounds like an excellent solution .......pity you haven't a piccyWarkton Tornado No.1 wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2019 11:03 pm Because of the original welds getting weak on my SX & the whole thing leaning @ a jaunty angle, I tried to devise an interim repair not involving a strip down & welding.
(This had the knock-on effect of limiting the space available for the stand to rotate, so it is now stiff, but doesn’t rattle).
I had some kitchen wall cabinet mounting rail left over which I cut to fit & align with the existing frame stand member holes & mounted it so that the horizontal part of the stand would run in the ‘U’ section.
I used countersink screws (M8, I think) with loads of Waxoyl & fixed it on.
It pulled the frame stand cross members in line & is amazingly strong.
I jacked mine up yesterday and found that not only were the stand brackets far too large in diameter but one of the stand bracket bolts has nearly been pulled through the frame leg ....Clearly the washer that I put on wasn't large enough to spread the load so I'll need to fit some large penny washers.
I used a bungee cord to lash the stand up tightly and on a short test run almost all the noise had gone ..so I guess there is nothing for it but to jack the scoot and remove the stand and do the job properly as I should have done in the first place.
I like your suggestion and will probably do something similar![]()
cheers Rosscla I knew about them but when I bolted this chrome stand and deflector on I thought shall i bother to order one up ?? .....nahhh it will be ok with a big washerrosscla wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 1:26 pm You can get load spreading plates for the stand bolts from various sources
Example
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAMBRETTA-SE ... XQBwlRUy2j
cheers WT No1 I have some 30 x 3mm washers that will do the job admirably although I may need to grind away one side to fit .Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote: ↑Thu May 23, 2019 12:44 pm
I will try & post a picture or two![]()
Whilst your stand is off, with the aid of a good vice & muscle, the stand components can be made much less sloppy as well.
In any case, the M8 screws & washers are best replaced by the high tensile built in washer type, (like the 'proper' front sprocket drive bolt) & when fitting, as you will need to 'over torque' to pull everything tight, use long cylinder head nuts to avoid stripping the thread. Those nuts, having done the job of not allowing threads to strip, can then be replaced by nyloc nuts which would otherwise have stripped.
Penny washers of a very heavy gauge are also best. Some people call them GPW (Gear Pin Washers) which may have a countersink hole, but thin washers are a waste of time![]()