Scooterotica

I've just got myself a fibreglass rear end to make my cutdown into a complete scoot again off evilbay. Its the type with the seat arch, panels and rear runners all in one.
Been thinking and its going to be alot more work than originally thought!
Guess im going to need some sort of subframe to take the weight off the snett bolted through the seat arch?
My main problem is going to be the fuel tap and choke as i want the whole rear body to hinge forward, does anyone know if there is an electrial fuel tap? I've got it in my head that the vespa cosa had one and an electric choke?
Help and suggestions please!!

Took a piccy of this last year at Pickering YSA, might give you some ideas AUSSIE.

the evolution lammys that have this one piece rear uses micro bore copper pipe from the tank and has a gas check valve mounted next to the bridge piece and is operated through a cut out in the panel were the tap handle usually is

Your fibre glass sounds like the one I made a mould for many years ago. Jon Churchill now owns the mould.

I have solved your controls problems already:





The scooter uses a fuel tap from a Suzuki Bandit (and car and fuel sender). This is connected to the crankcase via a pipe. The changes in crankcase compression operates a valve in the tap, and as long as the engine is running, the tap will flow fuel. When the engine stops, the fuel cannot flow.

The drawback to this is when the vacuum pipe comes off the tap and the engien takes in air and detonates. A small clip would have saved a lot of aggravation.

In the middle of the dashboard (below the ignition key) is the choke mechanism. This is a pukka dell'orto item and I have a spare. It is nice to be able to turn off your choke without having to bend yourself double as you ride off. Very convenient.




Other tips:

The standard petrol tank does not work with these f/g backends. Too wide.
The f/g can be made "quick release" by using dzuz fastners (nice - try Demon Tweaks)
Think about the location of the securing nuts/bolts for the outer rear running board strips. They can get in the way.

Martin, that's a work of art.

thanks Martin, as you say this is exactly the same as my back end. The way you have solved these problem there is no need to hinde the body which makes things easier . I was planning on using an aero type filler as you have. I was planning on using duze fasteners or a rally car bonnet fixing (demon tweeks is only 20 mins up the road from me! great for brake banjos and coil springs for r1 shock conversions)
Is it easier to tap a feed into the crankcase or into the reed block housing on a ts1 barrel, piston side of the reed block?
May I ask who did your tank fabrication and sub frame?
Thanks again

AUSSIE wrote:Is it easier to tap a feed into the crankcase or into the reed block housing on a ts1 barrel, piston side of the reed block?
May I ask who did your tank fabrication and sub frame?
Thanks again

Aussie,

It probably doesn't make too much difference where you tap into for the vacuum feed. I wonder if you get a better pulse off the engine rather than the manifold. Maybe.

I did all the fabrication of the tank, the subframe, all the fibreglass work, the paint, the tune, made the manifold, converted the R1 shock (with nylon bushes, half nuts and spring centralizers), the entire front wheel and disc brake, dropped handlebars, side stand, battery tray, AC/DC electrics, wrote the theme tune, sang the theme tune......

I wish I lived nextdoor to the Demon Tweeks shop, though I suspect it would seriously affect my wealth.

I was planning something very similar to what you have done, battery coil and reg in the original tool box area, full podtronic dc, maybe fuel guage, volt and amp guage (coz im a gadget man! ) on the seat arch. legshield tool box with maybe a set of pathfinder spots. I need to find some good looking indicators for the front as im planning on using a custom rear light with built in indicators. 1984 Indian frame!
Is your scoot built around a series 2 frame?

Well spotted. A 1963 Spanish SII to be precise. It was already a mess when i got it, so no Spaniards were harmed by me in the making of this scooter.

Ive had a massive parcel in the post I asked the guy to pack it well because of the postal services care that they take (not). I dont know if it is your mould Martin as it has recess in the panels for the panel grills? A few cracks in the gel coat but overall its good. But 1 problem i have noticed is the running boards do bend up from the bridge piece to the outer edge where they meet the legshields, My question is do I bend them down when I fix them (i guess they wont rattle) or do i cut through where they meet the panel and re fibreglass them?