SS90 (copy) bodywork preparation etc

[Knowledge]

12 Dec 2011
So tonight there was some tentative angle grinding (if there is such a thing) of the brand new RHS panel.



After a bit of work, I got the new panel to slip-in quite tidily. I am sure it won't be quite right. Meanwhile, it looks presentable.

[Knowledge]

13 Dec 2011
Despite the promising appearance of the pre-weld photo above, there was a surprising amount of trimming to get it to a point where I was happy to light-up the torch (but light-it up I did!)





Before I weld-up the back seam, I need to re-attach the bracket that runs inside the bodywork, behind the number plate. It had been cut in a couple of places, so I have re-welded it and given it a coat of paint (that will probably burn off when I weld it back onto the scooter)

[Knowledge]

14 Dec 2011
Thanks for the advice guys, I thought as much. My only thought was that someone would say "what did you weld THAT in for? You have to cut that out if you want to fit any form of performance pipe" or something like that.

OK, next problem. I have a big bit of panel missing on the LHS. It was missing on both the original panel, and the replacement from SteveC.





Has anyone a photo showing what this area looks like when it is complete?

(A good photo was supplied)

[Knowledge]

18 Dec 2011
Thanks for the photo. I've tried to use that info too, but the door, even when in place, it more of a distraction to the true curve of the panel than I expected.

Taking advice from Tony O, I have used some 1/4" steel rod to bend to shape along the bottom of the LHS panel. The intention here is to create the bottom-line of the panel (including the area where there is no panel), and strengthen the panel so I don't need the internal brace mentioned above.

It took a while to shape the rod to the bottom of the panel and then it was held in place with an assortment of mole-grips and clamps during welding.

I chose the bronze weld (braze) the rod to the panel, as the panel is very corroded. Bronze welding needs less heat than welding, so the sheet metalwork is more likely to survive a process that needs less heat.

There is plenty of blobby bronze on the join, but this is all underneath and therefore out of sight. It will tidy-up, I'm sure.



I have also fixed the strengthener into the back of the frame using much the same techniques with bronze weld in order to avoid the rick of distortion.

[Knowledge]

19 Dec 2011
So another couple of hours in the workshop tonight.

The task was to start filling the nasty rust hole at the front of the LHS panel. My metal working skills are not so good that I can carefully manufacture a whole new section and weld it in: this was going to have to be manufactured from several sections of sheet metal.

The lip at the bottom was an issue, but I remembered the solution featured elsewhere for forming the lip on the edge of the legshields that utilised a hand-held hydraulic crimping tool. I have one of these tools. I fitted the largest former into the jaws and tried to crimp the edge of some sheet steel around an offcut of the 1/4" rod and squashed it. It was good.

I started to fashion a piece of sheet steel to cover the whole area, but soon after the photo was taken, I cut it in half so I could deal with the job in smaller sections.



After a bit of tacking, I was able to join the dots and grind it.



I'm quite pleased. My luck will run out soon.

[Knowledge]

8 Jan 2011
Well, when I said 3rd January, but it soon became 8th January....

Down the workshop today and I got to grips with the rust holes at the bottom of the LHS bubble.



I decided to tackle this in two sections as this is simpler for me to tackle. First I cut a cardboard template, and then cut it in mild steel. I deliberately left it hanging over the bottom edge.



Once again the sheet metal clamps I built earlier proved useful as I tacked it in place on the upper edges.

I then used the hydraulic crimping tool (seen elsewhere on this site to create the edge of the SS legshields), to create the shape on the bottom of the bubble. I simply used the tool around the 1/4" rod that I had welded around the bottom of the bubble. As it was crimped-up, the shape was formed.

It was much easier to form the shape after it was tacked into place. Shaping it prior to welding would have been much more demanding.



I then moved on to repair the next hole.

The finished item looks better on this photo than it really is....



..... but there is nothing that some filler won't cover.

I've got lots of projects on the go at the moment, so progress on the SS might be slightly slow in the next couple of weeks.

[Knowledge]

20 Jan 2011
Sorry if things have been a bit quiet on the resto front, but I've had bits of "real-life" getting in the way (car needed work before MoT).

I want to cut the legshields and although there have been good measurements on this forum, the measurements don't help me ensure that the curves are captured correctly. I have made contact with a couple of local SS90 owners and asked if I can visit them and cut a template. Unfortunately, none have got back to me in time for this weekend. Never mind, there is always next week.

Meanwhile, I'll have a look at prepping the floor and the headset. I have to get the frame blasted before I weld the floor in place as there is a lot of rust in the tunnel, but I can still prepare for the welding by drilling holes for the stand and foot brake.

I need to re-make the controls in the headset and make provision for the disc master cylinder.

So, plenty to do.

[Knowledge]

29 Jan 2012


I met up with Tony O'Brien on Thursday night and I took some measurements from the Green Hornet. We made a template and marked-up my frame with a CD marker pen (indelible and narrow - useful in the workshop). We both stood back and said "That'll do" before retiring to the pub.

Back at my workshop, I took some checking measurements and reached for the angle grinder with the 1mm blade. Deep breath, and switch it on.






Not too bad, but no bevel on the edge yet.

[Knowledge]

29 Jan 2012
I rigged up a crimping tool like the one used by GP200 and featured in Pinky's SS90 rep project thread to put the groove into the edge of the legshields.

It is a very tiresome exercise and the finish is not consistent. It all needs more work, especially at the top where the original groove meets the new groove.

I am relying on the beading covering the mistakes I have made.



It looks about right, but don't be frightened to comment if you think I haven't captured the shape of the SS90.

[Knowledge]

29 Jan 2012
I have also been working on the headset.

I am going for a PX front brake with an external reservoir. I cut the brake lever housing off the ScootsRS headset and made a mounting plate for the master cylinder.



My welder repaired the broken groove by the headlight adjuster and welded on the mounting plate for the master cylinder.

He commented on the high quality of the ali used in the casting.







I also did some work on the V90 gear change to adapt it for the SS90 headset.











Tells its own story.