How do you stop them spinning round?
Just put my motor in and started to tighten bolts and noticed engine moving on the mounts.
Come up with a few ideas?
Superglue might work long enough to grip them in place until you finally tighten them in and then the combination of taper and compression holds them in after that.
How about small grub screw like on a die holder into the slot? then back it off when its tight? Could weaken the mount tube tho? Be difficult to drill and tap it due to restricted access above frame mount.
Do you think silicon bath sealer left over night to dry would hold them firm enough wilts you get it tight? Put a bolt through whilst they dry with engine not fitted?
Getting a bit rough now but..... Grind a flat on the cone then smack frame tube on edge in the corresponding location with hammer, just enough to stop it turning?
Just thinking aloud.
Eccentric engine bolt cones?
When i fitted them i give the frame tube a good clean inside and used clear silicone to hold them in place once it had set. Never had an issue with them twisting
-
- registered user
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2015 11:52 pm
- Main scooter: lambretta gp
- Location: east yorkshire
- Contact:
i like this idea, will try this myself, i will apply some studlock, not too much, then put the bolt through, then clamp them gently with g clamps and leave overnight.HxPaul wrote:A lot of people use loctite stud lock.
What I just did, if you stick your iPhone into the gap you can see the slots in the cones as they go round when the shaft turns. I bottomed the nut on one end of the shaft then I turned it until one of the cones was in right place. Then I slid another shaft in from other end and luckily it turned the other cone, in same way again until it was where I wanted it.
I then shoved the engine bolt through and tightened the nut on one end and held the shaft with the other nut. I monitored if the shaft spun as I tightened the second nut as that would have moved the cones but it didn't.
I didn't really want to drop the motor as it was a pig to get the silent blocks over the cones as the frame and cones were a bit wider than the gap between the ends if you know what I mean. Next time ill glue em in first though!
I then shoved the engine bolt through and tightened the nut on one end and held the shaft with the other nut. I monitored if the shaft spun as I tightened the second nut as that would have moved the cones but it didn't.
I didn't really want to drop the motor as it was a pig to get the silent blocks over the cones as the frame and cones were a bit wider than the gap between the ends if you know what I mean. Next time ill glue em in first though!
-
- registered user
- Posts: 89
- Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:42 pm
- Location: San Francisco, California USA
- Contact:
I put on two rear shock nuts (non-nylon nuts) on one side of the engine mount bolt and then install the bolt. Visually inspect where the threads are sticking out both sides and when you are confident there is enough on both sides to put the nylon nut on, screw the inner (remember I said I put two on the same side of the bolt) nut down until it abutts the silent block. Now carefully remove the bolt so the nuts don't move. Then weld the nuts to the bolt.
Now the bolt won't turn as you tighten it up.
You can also spend some money and buy the new Casa bolt set.
Now the bolt won't turn as you tighten it up.
You can also spend some money and buy the new Casa bolt set.
A chicken ain't nothing but a bird.
Spend Money?
- soulsurfer
- registered user
- Posts: 2539
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:43 pm
- Location: The Garden Of England
- Contact:
That's the best way to do it! You and use threaded bar with nuts and washers to clamp it;-)holty wrote:i like this idea, will try this myself, i will apply some studlock, not too much, then put the bolt through, then clamp them gently with g clamps and leave overnight.HxPaul wrote:A lot of people use loctite stud lock.
Turn On, Tune In, Cop out!