Series 3 Rear Hub

[Scooterdude]

Ok so when I stripped my rear hub originally I needed one of our large industrial pullers to get it off. But now for some reason I can fit the cone (with the shim behind it and the split positioned over one of the raised splines) put the hub and wavy washer on and tighten the nut to 120 ftlb, undo and take off the nut and just take the hub off.
So all I can come up with is that the cone has worn, is this normal? So just a simple case of replacing the cone (8 degree I believe) ?
Cheers guys.

[storkfoot]

Sounds like a previous owner has tried to compensate for play in the hub by overtightening it, which is why you had such problems getting it off in the first place.

If it was me, I'd be looking very critically at the condition of the hub, especially round the splines. Perhaps comparing it to a new hub. If it was in very good condition, I'd do as you say (although have you checked Sticky's book to see whether you have the type of hub that you think you have?). If I was in any doubt about the hub, I'd replace it, it is a very important safety component.

[Scooterdude]

Ok thanks but the plot thickens! Just checked the hub against the imformation in the stickys book and I actually have a later GP hub with the flat rather than recessed area for the lock ring and with the double ring/lip around the outside BUT! with the 1994 part number dating it to the earlier 11 degree cone for series 3.

So I'm thinking could there have been a mix up at the painters? But I just checked some photos when I got it and it clearly shows it's the same one as it came with which incidently had the same coloured flaking paint, so now what?

[Doom Patrol]

Try an 11 degree cone for a S3 perhaps?

[Scooterdude]

Yes that's one course of action but do these things wear after a while and require replacement as a matter of course?

[Doom Patrol]

I imagine it will wear. Particularly if the wrong cone has been fitted. I seem to remember this came up over on the LCGB, but don't ask me where exactly. Although, you might fit your 11 degree cone and it might be perfect. Wear really ought to be minimal if it's set up properly.

[Meds]

http://www.ilambretta.co.uk/forum/viewt ... 145#p51235
Have a look at the above topic, it might give you some insight

[Adam_Winstone]

Do not mix the wrong cones and hubs as it is the corresponding taper angles that hold the parts together... matching faces. If you try to simply bolt up the wrong parts then it does not function as intended and you only have nut pressure holding it in place.

Hubs and cones are designed to be a perfect taper match (as with flywheels and cranks) and it is recommended that you lap the 2 together with grinding paste if either is replaced, so that you guarantee that the taper angles correspond. I can't stress enough how getting a poor match is likely to result in the hub coming loose at some stage in the future... putting rider and any pillion at risk!

Ensure that you have the right cone for the right hub, that both parts are in very good taper condition or be aware that you are taking a risk!

Adam

[Doom Patrol]

Absolutely Adam. But the dude (who may or may not look like a lady) thinks he may have a hub which takes the earlier cone. The lesson is just to examine and be bloody sure that things match up whatever you do.

[Adam_Winstone]

A few years ago I was pleased to note that Scooter Restorations were selling a range of cones, for the range of hubs. Indeed, I've bought these for hubs that I long since lost the cones for and the ones that I've used have been fine, however, it is really, really, really important to get the right one for the hub in question.

Lapping the 2 together is a good way to produce minor reference marks that will indicate if the tapers are matching.

Adam