Scooterotica

Original 6v electronic, riding along,slowing down and it just died. Everything tested okay with a multimeter but I changed the stator for another 6v one. It ran for about a mile then the same thing, it just stopped no spark. I've tried another transducer and disconnected the ignition switch etc, still no spark. An ideas? It's got me stumped

My s2 does that. Changed the condenser and it was fine for around 200 miles and then it did it again. So I'm going to go to 12v electronic

Are you testing for a spark off a plug or off the end of the plug lead?

I've tested everywhere, even disconnected everything to test there's something coming from the stator and still nothing. Both original 6 volt electronic stators,first one was NOS and second one refurbished. Its almost as if something has just zapped them but there's no battery on it it etc.

I've tested everywhere, even disconnected everything to test there's something coming from the stator and still nothing. Both original 6 volt electronic stators,first one was NOS and second one refurbished. Its almost as if something has just zapped them but there's no battery on it it etc.

Is the refurbed stator known to work? Has the LT coil been wired correctly on the refurbed stator... I've had one that was refurbed, in error, as per the common 12V stator's LT, which meant that the wires to CDI had to be swapped around to get it to spark.

If you're not sure, take a photo of the LT wiring on both stators and post it/them on here.

Adam

The refurbed had blue silicon dabbed around it, probably to stop then vibrating, looks well done and the scooter did kick off okay, ran okay but only for about a mile then diverted same way, just stopped. The other stator was NOS that's ran for e for 1000+ miles but died the same way. Can the flywheel fail? I can't see how. I can normally workout problems like this but this has me stumped.

This sort of failure is similar to the times that I've had 6V systems fail when the ignition switch fails, however, this can normally then be bypassed by removing the loom green connection (normally then working for as many miles as you can stand not having key ignition function).

When I was looking into the resistor in the original Electronic's loom, it was noted that most people's similar failings were also at the ignition switch as, from my understanding after research and comments from others better informed than myself, that spikes in the system commonly give issue at soldered joints, rather than crimped. Have you got any additional soldered joints anywhere that might be suffering?

Would I be right in assuming that you're not running an original 'factory' 6V E loom? If not, any surge might be manifesting itself elsewhere and causing something to fail (e.g. transducer or stator).

Adam

Thanks Adam, good points.
The loom is new but I put in a thicker ignition wire per the article in Scootering but believe that is to protect the transducer.

It's an Indian ignition switch and as you suggest that could have caused some kind of short that has broken the trigger or the LT coil.

The tests according to Sticky's book using a Fluke Mulitmeter are,

1. 0.L
2. 95.4
3. .455

All that tests were done to an original 6v electronic stator, the first one that failed.

Any clues on the results?

What's your spark plug gap? It needs to be around 0.3mm for 6V. I found my 6V system was very sensitive to spark plug gaps. I gave up with it in the end and bought a 12V electronic kit. Best thing I've bought for my scooter.