Scooterotica

Have a 2nd hand BGM stator have done a check on it red & white 112, green & white nothing , red & white nothing what would need replacing, or who could repair it for me.

Anthony Tambs can sort that for you, I don't know if he's a member on here but he is on FB and frequents Lambretta Street Racers page, and others etc. He's an electronic guru, he also makes the Gamma Units, so contactable here:

http://www.gammatechnology.co.uk/rtse1000.html

Rally220 wrote:Anthony Tambs can sort that for you, I don't know if he's a member on here but he is on FB and frequents Lambretta Street Racers page, and others etc. He's an electronic guru, he also makes the Gamma Units, so contactable here:

http://www.gammatechnology.co.uk/rtse1000.html

+1 Top man and great work

TS1-200 wrote:......have done a check on it red & white 112, ......... red & white nothing

Rather contradictory statements there but I assume you mean GREEN and white? That being the case it will probably need a new LT coil (about £23) but have a good check of the connections and the cable. Put the meter probe directly on the point where the green connects to the LT coil, if you then get a reading (close to 500 ohms for a BGM) the problem is in the cable but if you still get nothing and the soldered joint is good (also check the connection to earth) then it will be the coil.

Changing the coil shouldn't be too challenging provided you are reasonably practical and can operate a soldering iron

Colin

coaster wrote:

TS1-200 wrote:......have done a check on it red & white 112, ......... red & white nothing

Rather contradictory statements there but I assume you mean GREEN and white? That being the case it will probably need a new LT coil (about £23) but have a good check of the connections and the cable. Put the meter probe directly on the point where the green connects to the LT coil, if you then get a reading (close to 500 ohms for a BGM) the problem is in the cable but if you still get nothing and the soldered joint is good (also check the connection to earth) then it will be the coil.

Changing the coil shouldn't be too challenging provided you are reasonably practical and can operate a soldering iron

Colin

As I understand it you cannot check a stator with a multi meter, you will need an oscilloscope for a correct reading otherwise you will get false results? Its all above my pay grade but makes sense when Anthony Tambs describes what he's checking with oscilloscope.

Rally220 wrote:

coaster wrote:

TS1-200 wrote:......have done a check on it red & white 112, ......... red & white nothing

Rather contradictory statements there but I assume you mean GREEN and white? That being the case it will probably need a new LT coil (about £23) but have a good check of the connections and the cable. Put the meter probe directly on the point where the green connects to the LT coil, if you then get a reading (close to 500 ohms for a BGM) the problem is in the cable but if you still get nothing and the soldered joint is good (also check the connection to earth) then it will be the coil.

Changing the coil shouldn't be too challenging provided you are reasonably practical and can operate a soldering iron

Colin

As I understand it you cannot check a stator with a multi meter, you will need an oscilloscope for a correct reading otherwise you will get false results? Its all above my pay grade but makes sense when Anthony Tambs describes what he's checking with oscilloscope.

You can check the resistance (Ohm) values of the individual components and that should tell you if the parts are good. The only way to tell when the trigger (firing point) happens is with an O scope.

Rally220 wrote:

coaster wrote:

TS1-200 wrote:......have done a check on it red & white 112, ......... red & white nothing

Rather contradictory statements there but I assume you mean GREEN and white? That being the case it will probably need a new LT coil (about £23) but have a good check of the connections and the cable. Put the meter probe directly on the point where the green connects to the LT coil, if you then get a reading (close to 500 ohms for a BGM) the problem is in the cable but if you still get nothing and the soldered joint is good (also check the connection to earth) then it will be the coil.

Changing the coil shouldn't be too challenging provided you are reasonably practical and can operate a soldering iron

Colin

As I understand it you cannot check a stator with a multi meter, you will need an oscilloscope for a correct reading otherwise you will get false results? Its all above my pay grade but makes sense when Anthony Tambs describes what he's checking with oscilloscope.

lol

Grumpy225 wrote:As I understand it you cannot check a stator with a multi meter, you will need an oscilloscope for a correct reading otherwise you will get false results? Its all above my pay grade but makes sense when Anthony Tambs describes what he's checking with oscilloscope.

You can check the resistance (Ohm) values of the individual components and that should tell you if the parts are good. The only way to tell when the trigger (firing point) happens is with an O scope.[/quote]

I think I might know who you are talking about if its the guy developing a new ignition system with vids of his test model on FB. I would agree that he seems to know his electronic theory so I suspect you may have misunderstood exactly what he was meaning. The only time an Oscilloscope is going to be of use would be if you were experiencing triggering possibly false triggering. 99.9% of the time checking the resistance of the LT and Pickup with a meter will give you all the information you need about the stator and a strobe will tell when it is firing.

Colin

I'm not on FB so I have no idea who you are talking about but you are correct the only time the O scope really comes in handy is looking for erratic ignition problems. That and a Tach can tell someone a lot about what the ignition is doing.

The rest of the time I just ohm them out.