Scooterotica

I'm about ready to dry build my series 2.

I've got a ts1 motor with...

mb inlet manifold
Franspeed 3
Bgm reed valve with 3mm packer plate


Now the question is, if I fit eccentric cones and a series 2 shock, will the cones keep the manifold clear of the frame while the longer shock keeps the pipe off the rear of the footboard?

I'm also nervous about the eccentric cones spinning in the frame.

Thoughts please?

I have the same setup, with a 3mm packer (110 rod) the MB manifold clears the frame on standard cones, which is much better. I use a 300mm shock.

If you use the eccentric cones put a smear of locktite on em, fit them in position & leave overnight b4 fitting your engine !
I have the same setup too but with a std AF manifold & RD rear shock fitted
for more rear footboard clearance using a JL-3 exhaust.

Boreham wrote:I have the same setup, with a 3mm packer (110 rod) the MB manifold clears the frame on standard cones, which is much better. I use a 300mm shock.

I mean a 3mm packer under the reed block, which keeps the petals away the ports, but unfortunately moves the manifold closer to the frame.

Norrie Bodge wrote:If you use the eccentric cones put a smear of locktite on em, fit them in position & leave overnight b4 fitting your engine !
I have the same setup too but with a std AF manifold & RD rear shock fitted
for more rear footboard clearance using a JL-3 exhaust.

What's an Rd rear shock?

My only concern with eccentric cones is that they might spin. Is loctite really enough to keep them in place? If there's experience out there telling me that's enough, then I'll happily go along with it.

Eccentric cones work fine and I have had no problems with mine.

I have an Avanti and have helped build a couple of others. I have noticed some of the cylinders are very close to the frame and some are not. This leaves me to believe that the engine frame mount (or rear shocker mount) is not positioned in exactly the same positions on frames, maybe out by 5 - 10mm ? This wouldn't be an issue with standard barrels but with todays after market kits it can cause issues.......and not everyone's solution will work as some frames are slightly different to others.....IMO

imo, you are right to be concerned about eccentric cones spinning. I took a dremmel to the top of my manifold after trying and failing with eccentric. I did consider grub screws to hold them in place but the dremmel was a better solution, IMO.

The cone is designed to compress into the tapered hole and grip the the engine stud when tightened. To me it seems that any solution which involves effectively fixing it in place defeats this purpose.

rosscla wrote:The cone is designed to compress into the tapered hole and grip the the engine stud when tightened. To me it seems that any solution which involves effectively fixing it in place defeats this purpose.

I agree. Torque is transmitted through the centre of the engine mount to the cone and the engine12 is trying to turn the cones in the frame every time it moves.

What I don't know is how good they are at staying in place once they've been compressed. Mick1's experience seems to be that they're fine so I think I'm going to give them a go as I've never actually heard of them spinning.

Thanks gents

If you are unsure why not put a mark across the cone and the mount (scratch/paint) take it for a ride and see if it's moved.