Scootrs hydraulische conversion for original disc brakes

[challenger]

I need to do something about my front brakes.
Im using an original front disc brake on reverse pull that I dont want to change.
Ive got a new hydraulic conversion cylinder from Scootrs lying around, Would be gratefull if anyone could give some Feedback as to wether its worth fitting or not.


Thanks, Paul

[bazza3004]

One of the lads on here (roadrunner ian) has a hydraulic conversion on his inboard front disc so he may be able to help you.

[rosscla]

If it's the pop in one held by the original circlip. I had a couple of different versions, one was ScootRS and another from a uk manufacturer with a larger piston. This type -



I found they had a tendency to flex against the circlip and produce quite a spongy feel.

They're also difficult to bleed.

[coaster]

Storkfoot on here has some experience of that type although I think he said his was a CS Engineering one. I know he had trouble bleeding it but believe it works well.

I've been installing one on my LiS but that has been machined for a bolt on cylinder, not got it plumbed in yet though.

[storkfoot]

Yes, I have a CS Engineering one with a grub screw. It is secured with the circlip and whilst it does flex against the circlip, it remains the best front brake I have ever had. There is good feel to the brake (Speedfight 100 master cylinder as opposed to one of the big ScootRS type ones).

You could replace the grub screw with a banjo bolt but I haven't bothered yet.

[challenger]

I have the Circlip type one.
The original Disc Brake will do a full stop as long as Im pushing the Scooter on level ground, If I roll it downhill while sitting on the Scoot, It doesnt slow me down very much at all.
When I rode the Scooter at about 20 Mph and pulled the front brake, nothing noticable happens.
Thanks for your replys, Ill fit the Hydraulic kit and have another go at setting the Brake. ( Need to get a Fixing bracket for behind the Horn casing first).

[coaster]

........ ( Need to get a Fixing bracket for behind the Horn casing first).

I was going to do that myself and went so far as to purchase the remote slave cylinder but after hearing many negative comments about the effectiveness of the remote option I have fitted a handlebar mounted master cylinder and a modified throttle/switch housing (Just Lambretta). It will mean a small hole in the headset which will be easily repairable if I ever want to put it back to standard but should result on a solid brake lever.

[bristolmod]

a well adjusted front disc should work well and certainly stop you!! I do mine as follows:-

1) ensure disc does indeed "float" on studs- clean them up with a small rotary.
2) make sure the disc and the pads are not "glazed"
3) reverse pull the cable but make sure you do not have too much outer cable - I needed to trim mine a few times before it was perfect. You really need to approach the situation where you think you've trimmed too much off the outer.
4) use "friction free" cables
5) adjust the inner cable length on the clamp and make fine adjustments on the 10 mm nut

Chris

[HxPaul]

I use a ScootRS inboard disc with reverse pull.The brake is really good,If I were to squeeze to hard on the lever the brake would have me over the handlebars its that good.