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cylinder cowling
Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 10:47 am
by paul d
Scraping together the money for a gori 200 kit for a gp150 engine. Was just wondering will the standard 150 cylinder cowling fit or is there a better option for cooling? Maybe a larger cowling would be better...any advice?
Re: cylinder cowling
Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 12:34 pm
by shamrockexpress
Hi Paul
not to upto date with cowlings but stickys book has a bit of info on cowlings,,,,,,,,,,i personally just put on what ever fits best and then like all cowlings you,ll need to cut and chop to get room for reed inlet and exhaust stub........I always weld a good strong washer on where the head cowling bolt fixes to extended cylinder nut this helps keeps all in place.
good luck,,,,,
PS hows tings in the sout?????? and why the Gori kit?
Studs
Re: cylinder cowling
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 11:21 am
by paul d
Hi Studs! Liking your idea of welding in a washer to strengthen the cowling. All good here down south. Getting ready to build a bike for the euro this year, just buying bits. Still waiting for bodywork to come back from my spray painting neighbour. Went for the gori because it's a basic non reed iron barrel. I'm hoping it'll be reliable with a bit more to give than the standard 150. Have to dig out sticky's book, it's in the shed somewhere! Got to thinking about cowlings cause I want the best set up possible for cool running. Was thinking a big cowling like an rb one would give more room for heat to escape but to be honest, I'm not sure. Maybe the cooler air from the fan could then bypass the fins because it's got the room to... Have a temp guage and handlebar choke set up. Just want the journey to be as hassle free as possible....are they ever?
Re: cylinder cowling
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:57 pm
by Doom Patrol
Not sure about that Paul. Seems to me that if you increase the space under the cowl you would be reducing the pressure and therefore the velocity at which the air escapes, which might mean it becomes hotter..... I can't believe I just said that.

Re: cylinder cowling
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 2:34 pm
by shamrockexpress
Doom Patrol wrote:Not sure about that Paul. Seems to me that if you increase the space under the cowl you would be reducing the pressure and therefore the velocity at which the air escapes, which might mean it becomes hotter..... I can't believe I just said that.

well done Doom
that's right pal get it all out!!!!!
Yes the hot air that's is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Paul I agree with Doom you want that air moving so as long as everything is tight it should be fine.
Good luck with the Gori sounds interesting.
Studs
Re: cylinder cowling
Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 1:10 am
by paul d
Thanks to both of you for the help and a good laugh too! I've no lambretta experience, it's always been vespa. I've a feeling I'll be asking alot more questions as the build gets under way.
Re: cylinder cowling
Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:25 pm
by shocky
The later indian cylinder cowls have a larger exit cutout whichis reported to let the air escape quicker no idea of theory over fact thought ..