Scooterotica

I have found a place that sells there kandy concentrate and clear for airbrush use, meaning small quantities. Question I have is,
how much do you think you would need to do an engine case on it's own?

also does anyone know who has the best deal for there primer sealer as the airbrush company doesn't sell it.

thanks
Sef

I buy my HOK from here : http://www.autopaintdoncaster.com/categ ... e-Of-Kolor

I believe they are one of 2 UK importers.

With regards to painting your engine casing, are you planning on doing it with your airbrush, or a mini gun ?. doing it with an airbrush could cause you major headaches.

To mix the candy concentrate, you need SG100 intercoat clear.

No, will be with a gun. When i priced up primer, candy, mixer and clear it was north of £100. This company decants into 20m bottles. Idea being to work out how much i will need?

Your going to need 6 to 8 lights coats to get good even colour saturation.
Using a Devilbiss SRI, with a 1mm nozzle, I'm guessing you wouldn't want to try and do it with less than 200mm of reduced candy. Just be careful when it comes to decanted paint, some companies sell it pre-reduced, meaning that you only get 50% paint, and 50% thinners.
As an alternative have a look at: http://www.smdesigns.co.uk/candy-20 these are a brand new water based candy, that spray like a dream. The dyes are really potent, so it might work out cheaper for you.

GBCS wrote:Your going to need 6 to 8 lights coats to get good even colour saturation.
Using a Devilbiss SRI, with a 1mm nozzle, I'm guessing you wouldn't want to try and do it with less than 200mm of reduced candy. Just be careful when it comes to decanted paint, some companies sell it pre-reduced, meaning that you only get 50% paint, and 50% thinners.
As an alternative have a look at: http://www.smdesigns.co.uk/candy-20 these are a brand new water based candy, that spray like a dream. The dyes are really potent, so it might work out cheaper for you.

Thanks for the advice. I have never used water based before. Is it the same process?
Ta

I was in the same boat, never used water based, and was very wary of it. I couldn't see how it could be as good.
I have now done 2 courses with Simon Murray https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnhklT ... VsMuxWHjNA
Everything in his videos, that I was very cynical about, is true. you spray a normal coat, exactly the same as you would with solvent based, and then blow it over with a hot air gun. 30 seconds after spraying the base coat, you can tape over it for artwork or graphics. I'm a convert, plus it has the added benefit of being less harmful, and non flammable.

GBCS wrote:I was in the same boat, never used water based, and was very wary of it. I couldn't see how it could be as good.
I have now done 2 courses with Simon Murray https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnhklT ... VsMuxWHjNA
Everything in his videos, that I was very cynical about, is true. you spray a normal coat, exactly the same as you would with solvent based, and then blow it over with a hot air gun. 30 seconds after spraying the base coat, you can tape over it for artwork or graphics. I'm a convert, plus it has the added benefit of being less harmful, and non flammable.

i have always avoided taping straight onto base as it somtimes lifts the paint, so always used to put clear on first, does elongate the process. Sounds like it may be the way to go.

On his course he had us putting down metallics, candies, solid bases etc, and taping detailed layouts on to them in less than 2 minutes of them being sprayed. There were a few people on the course, and nobody had any issues with tape lifting, or marking.

I must admit, I tried some auto air paint 5 or 6 years ago, without much luck. having done the course, I now know that it was down to my spraying technique after years of using solvent bases. As I have said in another thread, I have no affiliation with the product, I am just impressed with what it can do.

The new candy application vid is here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7MJFAcPCpc