checking wiring with multi meter

[rainbowrunner]

hi, bit of a numpty question, what setting do you put the meter on to check for breaks in wiring, bought a series 2 with a fault (i new about it) the ignition did,nt work, i took the green wire from the loom at CDI and run another green from CDI direct to the ignition in headset and it now switches on and off ok so thats that one sorted (must be a break some were in the green wire going to headset.(I think)
The other problem i have when the lights are on they flicker on and off so i,m thinking must be a fault in that wire as well, bike runs great just these 2 little faults, do you think its the loom or regulator , bulbs are in tight and all connections are clean, stumped now

[ForemanBob]

Set the meter to "continuity test" or the Diode Picture --->|--- for the "BEEP"

What I would do though is pull the "Brown" live feed from the regulator, and connect that to the +ve from a battery charger, and clip the -ve from the battery charger to the earth at the regulator...

Then you can use the meter to check DC voltage at the headset... the intermittent connection for the headlamp I would wager is somewhere within your headlamp... and if its anything like the mess i've been sorting out for a mate recently...good luck...

[coaster]

................ i took the green wire from the loom at CDI and run another green from CDI direct to the ignition in headset and it now switches on and off ok so thats that one sorted (must be a break some were in the green wire going to headset.(I think) (

Just to correct a misconception there, the green wire you mention is used to connect the ignition feed into the CDI to earth either via the ignition switch or cutout button. Therefore the existing green can't be broken, if it was then you wouldn't be able to turn the engine off. More likely is that it is shorted to earth somewhere.

Good advice from Forman Bob re using a DC source for testing, it'll keep your neighbours happy for sure

[Monty]

Be careful with a battery charger very easy to burn your switch or wires if you have a dead short, An in line fuse between the charger and the brown on the loom will save your wires. I would then be looking at the light switch does it flicker on dip but not on full beam, is the rear light flickering at the same time, The brass pegs inside the switch get fustey and can be cleaned up with a bit of wet and dry, Try putting a bit of pressure on the switch as if you are changing from one to the other if it flickers more then its a good sign of an iffy switch
ForemanBob
I like the idea of painting all the wires the same colour, I dont know why they all have to be different colours, half the time people just plug them in and wonder why they dont work

[rainbowrunner]

thanks for all the info, something to go at, just to clear up a few answers, the front and back light flickers when lights are switched on, it happens when on low beam or high beam and pressing on switch does nowt, i,ll have another bash at it if its light enough tomorow and let you know

[rainbowrunner]

little update, If i pull the brown from the regulator and connect a battery (live to brown - neg to earth) everything works if i start the scoot and put a test bulb where the brown goes on reg it lights up, so power is coming out of the reg, if i put the brown back on reg and start the bike nothing works.
so i think i can rule out the reg being faulty, don,t no what to check next

[wack 63]

Pull the brown out at the headset and reg then connect meter leads to both ends . Set on buzz and if all ok it will beep, wiggle the bullet connectors just to rule them out. Also check the female connectors on the bulb holder are tight and the link that joins the two together .

[coaster]

little update, If i pull the brown from the regulator and connect a battery (live to brown - neg to earth) everything works if i start the scoot and put a test bulb where the brown goes on reg it lights up, so power is coming out of the reg, if i put the brown back on reg and start the bike nothing works.
so i think i can rule out the reg being faulty, don,t no what to check next

I'm not so sure that does prove the regulator is ok as it would normally be getting an AC feed not DC. Doesn't anyone you know have a spare regulator to lend you?

[rainbowrunner]

coaster wrote,

I'm not so sure that does prove the regulator is ok as it would normally be getting an AC feed not DC. Doesn't anyone you know have a spare regulator to lend you?


I had a bulb holder with a wire to the output on reg and earthed the other wire from bulb holder , when i start the bike the bulb lit up , so to me the reg is getting power from the stator (AC) and i,m getting power from the reg to light the bulb I only connected the brown from reg to a battery to see if the power was getting to the headset which it is. going to clean up all the earths in morn and make sure there clean & tight and try again
thanks for all help so far.

[coaster]

coaster wrote,

I'm not so sure that does prove the regulator is ok as it would normally be getting an AC feed not DC. Doesn't anyone you know have a spare regulator to lend you?


I had a bulb holder with a wire to the output on reg and earthed the other wire from bulb holder , when i start the bike the bulb lit up , so to me the reg is getting power from the stator (AC) and i,m getting power from the reg to light the bulb I only connected the brown from reg to a battery to see if the power was getting to the headset which it is. going to clean up all the earths in morn and make sure there clean & tight and try again
thanks for all help so far.

Right, that wasn't clear from your earlier post. When you said earlier that you put the brown back in, started the engine but got nothing, did you have lamps in or were you just checking for volts with a meter? I only ask because the regulator needs a load connected otherwise it automatically shorts the stator volts to earth...you would still see some output though.