Scooterotica

Hi all, I have managed to twist the crank in my TS1. It us an AF Rayspeed race crank that is a few years old.
Can it be trued up?
If so who can do this and what sort of price?

Also when i got to take the flywheel off the bolts holding the stator plate on were all loose. I assume this gas happened when crank twisted and flywheel has made contact with the stator as they were tight and the engine has done about 59 miles being built. So I may have shagged my BGM DC stator aswell! Great!!

Any advice welcome, Andy

Are you sure it is twisted and if so, what did you do to make it twist? I only ask as if it twisted in 'normal' use I would be very loath to trust the interference fit, maybe getting it welded would be advisable?

The only thing I can think of is that I changed down a bit early and it revved quite high in 2nd, after that it started making a rubbing noise then stopped and wouldn't start again!

Ah....that doesn't sound good, getting it trued would be easy enough, it's just a matter of if the interference fit between the pin and webs is good enough to prevent it happening again.

coaster wrote:it's just a matter of if the interference fit between the pin and webs is good enough to prevent it happening again.

Not much chance of that on the AF 58mm race cranks.

drunkmunkey6969 wrote:

coaster wrote:it's just a matter of if the interference fit between the pin and webs is good enough to prevent it happening again.

Not much chance of that on the AF 58mm race cranks.

I had one twist about 5 yrs ago pro porting sorted it for me I then tig welded the pin

shocky wrote:

drunkmunkey6969 wrote:

coaster wrote:it's just a matter of if the interference fit between the pin and webs is good enough to prevent it happening again.

Not much chance of that on the AF 58mm race cranks.

I had one twist about 5 yrs ago pro porting sorted it for me I then tig welded the pin

Likewise I've seen loads spread/twist, people have them welded and they still twist again.

They fact is they are crap cranks to begin with.....the interference fit on the pin is shite. You can press the webs back together in a hand vice.

SIL webs with Jap rod/bearing is a better option than most (if not all) other options for a 58mm stroke. I look forward to Rich Taylor's new/upgraded version of this base model.

Harry used an oversize pin on mine he miked about 20 up to get the best fit

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shocky wrote:Harry used an oversize pin on mine he miked about 20 up to get the best fit

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Exactly....what a waste of time. SIL webs and Jap rod would've been quicker and easier.

I think charged me 40 quid it didn't take that long it suited me he liked a challenge we both came away happy , its a lambretta were is the "fun" in of the shelf options?

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