Scooterotica

Hi
just completing build of new engine for my Bitsa.
Had enough of that Autisa thingy (for now)

It's ex group 4, 58mm stroke, cast barrel with Wiseco piston.
I am running all cowlings and full fan on the flywheel.

I have come to last bottle in the box of Silkolene Comp 2 synthetic.
This seems to mix ok and work well.

Just wanted a quick note of who using what and best source to buy from.

Don't mind anything up to 33:1, but don't want to be running too much oil.

Your thoughts much appreciated.

Best regards
Steve

I live in Thailand and currently run an NSR250 which has been converted to 300 it cruises at 150-160 kph at 9000-9500 rpm (about 180 kph, maybe 200 between refuel) and I use Shell VSX in the black container.

I was told by my engine builder that it has the best lubricity of oils commonly available here. So if you can buy it there...?

Where you are it might look like this

Why not buy some from Lubetech? Link below and there is a code to get 10% discount. Loads of guys using it.

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 12&t=31671

5litres of fully synthetic to your door for £26.96 with the scooterotica code. Im on my second lot and just did 600+ miles last weekend doing the coast to coast on it at 3%. Zero problems

+ 1 ^ I bought 20L fully synthetic (under £80) delivered to my door. I use between 2% - 3% not that anal about measuring.

Do you want to run full synthetic or semi synthetic, or not that fussed? The comp 2 that you have been using is a semi synthetic.,cheers,Speedy.

Just a thought. Maybe petrol stations in the UK no longer carry 2T oil, as they do here in Thailand. That is the beauty of Shell. Available most everywhere. BTW Garden centres or chainsaw shops also have 2T some even synthetic (chain saws)

dapper wrote:Why not buy some from Lubetech? Link below and there is a code to get 10% discount. Loads of guys using it.

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 12&t=31671

+1

I was looking up Comp 2 and found this. Interesting to note that new Comp2 is not the same as old Comp2 which has been rebranded as a "Classic" oil. According to Fuchs, the new version is a low-smoke oil and doesn't lubricate as well due to the thinners in it.


Q. I have been successfully using Comp 2 Premix in all my 2T trials bikes for many years with no problems, and feel that posts like this: http://www.trialscentral.com posting tend to confuse people, as in effect a lot of what gets posted is complete nonsense! I wonder if you would be good enough to provide some definitive and accurate information about 2T oils and ratios suitable for trials (I use 70:1 in old air cooled motors), that I could use on my web site (http://www.classictrial.co.uk). This might help to reduce the amount of nonsense that gets posted about oils, and provide some accurate info at the same time.

A. Chris, I do not need to tell you that much, trials riding is at low engine output, so not much oil is needed; also, oil tends to accumulate in the crankcase due to low gas speeds, so extra lubrication is there if a sudden burst of power is required. (....but too much can foul plugs!) This is not too different from 2T riding in a crowded urban environment, for which the 'low-smoke' oils were originally developed. These give a clean engine and exhaust and virtually complete freedom from plug fouling, but they are not, in their basic form, a 'competition' or 'racing' oil. (The well-known Japanese 'JASO FC' low-smoke specification is based on tests in scooter and static generator engines. It also includes engine cleanliness requirements.)
All genuine JASO FC low-smoke oils contain a lot of thick polymer called 'PIB', (Poly-isobutene), so they have to be thinned down with a solvent, usually kerosene. The rest of the blend (in a basic type) is mineral oil and detergent/dispersant and anti-wear compounds. This makes them less effective lubricants than a NON-low smoke solvent-free racing oil such as Comp-2 Pre-Mix, so mix ratios for trials in A/C engines need to be around 30:1 to give equivalent lubrication to Comp-2 P/M at 70 : 1. But, both oils are detergent and give a clean engine, unlike castor-based blends, which are NOT detergent, and tend to leave a lot of carbon on the piston, ring groove and exhaust ports especially if used at low revs. We sell what is effectively an R30 (PRO-KR2) which is intended for Kart racing and similar 'flat-out' competition. Under such conditions it is reasonably clean-running, because it is part synthetic and doesn't behave like the old 1950s castors, which are still a 'folk memory'! I would definitely not recommend castor-base oils for trials, but if someone is determined to do so for the sake of the smell, they could perhaps get away with KR2 at around 60:1, increasing the amount for heavy going such as dry sand, and reducing it for walking-pace 'balancing act' sections at low revs.
News item!: The new Comp-2 is a 'JASO FC Plus' low-smoke type, with some synthetic content. The old Comp-2Pre-Mix will be re-introduced in the 'Classic' range under another name, due to popular demand.

Regards
Oil Clinic Team

Brilliant info there Armand. Putoline did something similar some years back with their famous MX5. Putoline used to make two oils, TT Sport and MX5, the TTS being semi synthetic and the MX5 being fully synthetic. Both used to be in the big round yellow bottles, if you remember them. Then they went to a pale blue in the shape they are now. Finally in the newer dark blue bottles, the MX5 you get now is a new one. When Putoiine introduced MX7, 100% synthetic as they call it, they abolished MX5. Then apparently re introduced it by popular demand, ......But as a Synthetic, Which is the new misleading word for semi synthetic Here's a bit of really boring stuff for yer...Silkolene, Super is semi synthetic, Comp is semi synthetic with ester tech and Pro is full synthetic ester tech. Putoline....any saying synthetic are a semi synthetic, those saying fully or 100% synthetic are fully synthetic. How nice of them to use even more terminology. Rock oil, green bottles are mineral, silver bottles are semi synthetic and gold bottles are full synthetic. Motul, anything ending in hundred, ie, 600 or 800 is semi and anything ending I thousand is full, ie, 6000 or 8000. Lubetechs Optima race is fully synthetic, ester tech, jaso fd, api tc++ etc, basically everything and is a lot cheaper, is British and I'm about to order 20 litres