Scooterotica

ok just been converting my spare stator to dc , i have to soldering irons at my disposal a small fine tipped 30watt and a 200watt , which is not really suitable for soldering up stators
my problem how do i the solder to run cleanly , my soldering looks s**t it seems to take ages to run ,using either soldering iron , resulting in the insulation melting , i`m using 2mm multi-core solder
what am i doing wrong ???

That is usually caused by applying an iron to the job before it's had time to heat up properly. all the time that you're waiting for the solder to melt, the heat from the iron is being conducted down the wire and that's what melts the insulation.

Wait for ages before picking the soldering iron up. Just let it get as hot as possible before using it.

If possible don't apply the iron to your stator. Instead melt solder on the tip of the (as hot as possible) iron, then let the hot solder melt any solder that's on the stator.

Hi , as already stated make sure your iron is up to temperature & also its good practice to "tin" both parts that need to be soldered, for example apply solder to the end of your wire & also to the component/part you wish to solder the wire to. hope this helps, good luck db67

If you are using the new approved lead free solder throw it in the bin and get some 60/40 lead solder. It flows like solder should especially if your wire is not brand new and a bit tarnished. The amount of lead you are using will not kill the planet. Freely available on eBay normally from China.
A 30w is a small iron I use a 25w for PCB work a 200 w must be like a poker but if it's just for this soldered contact it should be fine if its tinned first, you want a fast flow and set.

the 200watt has a steel (i think) tip and ive tried to tin it but to no avail , what wouldbe the best way to tin it ??

joeswoonara wrote:the 200watt has a steel (i think) tip and ive tried to tin it but to no avail , what wouldbe the best way to tin it ??

Is it one of those pistol instant heat types? I have one of those and whatever the tips are made of, it isn't copper and won't tin. Despite the heat it is difficult to get a good joint. I generally use a 35 watt one for most soldering, the tip is about 10mm and manages ok for most jobs.

no both are standard type soldering iron the small one i have is a copper tip and can be tinned but is low powered the big one with the steel tip solder just rolls off

The tip must be super clean, try filing off any nasty black deposits, then get it up to temp & wipe the tip on a wet soldering sponge or a rolled up piece of clean, damp cotton rag. Regularly wipe the tip to get the burned flux off. As mentioned already, use leaded solder only, not the lead free crap.

You need to get both of the things coated in solder before you try and join them. That way it just needs the briefest of touches with the iron to re-melt it and join them. If you don't do that it'll never work and you end up with a horrible melted mess.

I was taught "as hot as possible for as short a time as possible"

On about lead free solder, we just come back from the San Diego, befoer going to the Vegas High Roller rally, where we bumped into two drunk USA boffins in the Irish Bar. They were in Diego for a conference on the negative impact on lead free solder in respect to American military circuit boards. But for the life of me I can't see why they required 3 days of conference to discuss that. But what they did say and i agree, solder with lead at 40% does work a treat, because I've tried unsuccessfully with the lead free stuff.