Engine pin removal

[Mariner]

Hi, time to remove the engine, I've got the two bolts off eventually but the pin is stuck, really stuck. I've used a socket extension as a drift and basically battered it for a good few hours with no movement whatsoever. A full can of wd40 has been used, I've tried heating it aswell but to no avail. I'm yet to try the washer route as I don't have that many, any other tips please I'm desperate to get it out? Cheers

[mick1]

is it Vespa or lambretta ?

Not that it makes a great deal of difference I suppose.

I'd stick a nut and washer back on and tighten up to start moving the bolt. once bolt is moving you might have a chance.

[Mariner]

Lambretta li125. Good idea, is there a danger that I could damage something by over tightening? The threads are a bit knackered but sounds good.


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[Mickey C]

Speaking from experience, heat is not a good idea, the bar heats and gets more stuck. WD40 didn't do much 4 me, try soaking in plus gas (ideally overnight)?or similar to remove any rust that has presumably caused it to seize.
A few washers & tightening 1 end with other side slackened off & then same on the other side. Lots of patience helps too! if this doesn't work, can you get 2 nuts tightened up on 1 side? Once it's spinning, it'll come out. If this doesn't work or the threads strip (which happened to me) there's a more drastic approach but hope it doesn't come to this.

[Monty]

You will have more chance breaking something bashing hell out of it with a hammer or turning the bolt into a bloody big rivet that will never come out. Use the nuts to try and move it first. If you can get it to turn the bolt all the better. back the nut off and fit a suitable open ended spanner in between the silent block and the washer. Tighten down on it with the other side nut off and see if you can draw it even just a bit then swap sides and see if you can pull it back. I had one that used every spanner in the box. Lots of plus gas, diesel or the like WD is a bit thin. If you are pulling against the bush that it held by the frame and the same on the other side you should be safe. You generally find it goes better one way than the other. Try that before attacking the silent bush. Sometime the bonded inner sleeve will part company from the rubber I find it gets really hard then as You cannot get hold of the sleeve without serious chopping of the block risking the case. Good Luck

[Mariner]

Brilliant thanks very much. The threads aren't great and neither are the nuts but I might be able to cut away the knackered thread just enough to get a bite. Like the spanner idea will give it a go. Il be back!


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[Juan]

WD40 is next to no use as a freeing agent other than for very lightly corroded parts. Plus Gas is better but the best you can get is dumping it in a vat of diesel if not hugely practical for that size of object. Next best thing available is graphite penetrating oil.

[Mariner]

So got some washers and tried a new but as the old ones had a crack in it, stripped the thread now arrrggghhh! Any other suggestions?


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[hendy]

Weld a stiff rod (ooer Mrs) or square tube etc to one end and turn it. Once it's moving it'll move.

Or you could weld one of your nuts (this just keeps getting better) to the end and use that with a breaker bar.

[Monty]

Im struggling to see how you have stripped the threads.
1st of all we are talking about the long engine bolt on a Lambretta? I goes through the silent bush and the cones in the frame.
I would expect the nuts to go rather than the bolt and what was cracked the washers???
Get some new nuts I would go for 2 on each end double nutted to try and twist it free. Get it moving even a bit and then go back and forth getting some lubricant in the moving parts. Welding is good for direct heat bur its not going to be pretty