Scooterotica

hi looking for some help , ive had to drill the so called high tensile allen screws out that hold the drive side plate on , which has only left a small part of the screw showing ,
has anyone got any ideas as to how i can get them out . or is there anyone that can do
such a job , or have i f****d my casing up thanks Steve

There are lots of way to remove a broken screw. If you want to try it your self I'd watch some how to's on YouTube first.

If you are not comfortable with it then take it to a machinist that has the proper tools to do it with out making it worse.

thanks grumpy well have a look

Place an unplated M6 hex nut ontop of the brocken screw. If you can get halt a turn on then this will help. Then use a mig welder to pool weld in the middle of the hex nut to weld it to the remaining broken screw. Wait for it to cool then try to ease it out with a socket and heat gun (the heat from welding also helps).

thanks rich_t , spoken to af and they are going to try and do it for me , Steve

Did you have to drill it becouse the hex in the middle was fcuked? the reason I ask is becouse ive had to do some becouse the center become round off as its very shallow , I did as above but tig welded it instead offmig, ive always used a slotted screw and ive never not been able to get one out even with knackered slot , im not convinced that it needs to be high tensile when its going into aluminium

if all else fails, and you cant get the screw out , you can turn the drive seal plate 90 degrees, and re-drill and tap all four holes. or dremmel a slot in the screw head, and try a small bit on a ratchet, with some heat. if its fooked , tap out to the next size and alter drive plate to suit. a few options.

Good point Goldeneye, but you need to rotate the plate by 45 degrees, not 90degrees (but we knew what you meant)

goldeneye wrote:if all else fails, and you can't get the screw out , you can turn the drive seal plate 90 degrees, and re-drill and tap all four holes.

Are you sure ? Have you tried it ?
When ive looked before, you would end up drilling straight throught in to fresh air , as area around the original holes are a lot thicker to allow for the tapped hole .

seen it done a couple of times on engines ive worked on (turning the seal plate that is). don't go mad drilling it out, you"ll f@@k the casing , the best bet is the nut and weld method, heat/cool/heat/cool.