Scooterotica

Reading about spraying metallic paint,it says to rub down final coat before lacqeuer.This seems to lighten the colour,does it return when lacquer coats are applied?

If you are referring to 'basecoat' ? I wouldn't rub that down.

Jonn wrote:Reading about spraying metallic paint,it says to rub down final coat before lacqeuer.This seems to lighten the colour,does it return when lacquer coats are applied?

If your using base coat either flat colour or metallic then you should not rub down before you put your clear/lacquer on. wait for it it to go off then add a fine grab coat, wait for that to flash off then add as many coats as you want or dare. make sure you wait for each coat to flash off and don't be to heavy handed. You may want to tack cloth prior to clear coat but not rub down. that is unless it's something that was previously base coated but not lacquered then you can rough it up with a scotch pad.

that's how I do it. Good luck

What about any bits/orange peel in the paint,basically smooth out with the lacquer coats?

Jonn wrote:What about any bits/orange peel in the paint,basically smooth out with the lacquer coats?

Yes, put several coats on, if the orange peel is very bad you will need 5 or more coats but you must be very careful rubbing it down especially at the edges in case you brake through and damage the metallic layer.

coaster wrote:

Jonn wrote:What about any bits/orange peel in the paint,basically smooth out with the lacquer coats?

Yes, put several coats on, if the orange peel is very bad you will need 5 or more coats but you must be very careful rubbing it down especially at the edges in case you brake through and damage the metallic layer.

quite so. Basic rule of thumb you should be able to put clear on within hour and half max, that's presuming you have enough heat in your room. If you based it up the day before then you will need a slight physical key as opposed to the chemical key you get when putting clear on fresh base coat.

Had to redo a bit as there was a dent in the fibreglass I didn't see Problem is now after filling ,the filler is grinning through.You can see the outer ring of filler where its feathered to the original paint.I let new primer dry thoroughly,sprayed well beyond the repair, you could see the 'ring' of the repair,rubbed it down so it had gone but it showed through the top coat.
I dried the filler before priming with a heater for a few mins,could it be causing the trouble if it was still damp under the surface?

The 'ring' you see is caused by unequal drying times. That's to say the paint on paint dries at a different speed to the paint on the filler.
The answer is when doing a patch repair, brush apply primer over the filler and rub it down the next day. Then spray primer (from an aerosol will do) rub that down, then paint.

Daggs wrote:The 'ring' you see is caused by unequal drying times. That's to say the paint on paint dries at a different speed to the paint on the filler.
The answer is when doing a patch repair, brush apply primer over the filler and rub it down the next day. Then spray primer (from an aerosol will do) rub that down, then paint.

I've not tried that but it might well work. I read sometime back that the thinner in the primer and sometimes even the top coats can soak through and soften the filler which causes the repair to stand out. I have used a barrier coat to stop this with success but 2 k primer works too as the thinner is acrylic and therefore not so likely to soak through as celly is and also, when it dries, no other thinner from subsequent coats will be able to penetrate it.

Have brushed on primer.I had been using spray cans ,and never had this problem before,it usually too 3 coats of primer to hide any filler.I used cellulose on this repair, so what you said coaster could be happening.Its just all the waiting that's driving me mad,need to get it done.