Beyond messing around with the odd Vespa clutch and carb, I've never stripped a Vespa engine before. I think it likely this engine has never been apart before too. However, I'm going to replace the cush drive springs as I suspect that, whilst the engine was sat for years, some of them have rusted and snapped.
The engine is one of these:
http://www.scooterhelp.com/motors/VSE1M ... femsa.html
Anyway, today I dropped the engine and stuck it on a stand. I have clutch tools for a Vespa but can someone just give me a heads up as to what other specific Vespa tools I'll need please, and which ones are the best quality?
Delving into VSE1M
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Hi Paul
http://scooterhelp.com/tips/engine/tools.html - this should help
for the clutch there is a clutch holding tool, castellated nut removal tool and a clutch compressor - which you have (?)
the castellated nut one is where you want best quality - (and same goes for a replacement nut) - there are load of cheap ones out there that are made of cheese..... if you change the nut get a genuine one or SIPs own make (you will need a tab/basket washer) - steer clear of £1.50 ones.
Once removed you could change to cosa flanged nut with cambourne washer under which requires just a socket.
Other than them a flywheel puller is required where the flywheel is threaded - older ones use a retaining clip that is supposed to draw the flywheel off the crank as the main nut is loosened but ive seen them stuck and had to use a three legged puller carefully and a holder (you can make one if need be) - Conrod holder is handy (same a lambretta) depending on what stage of build your at - just same as bretta
Nothing else really needed
Gaz
http://scooterhelp.com/tips/engine/tools.html - this should help
for the clutch there is a clutch holding tool, castellated nut removal tool and a clutch compressor - which you have (?)
the castellated nut one is where you want best quality - (and same goes for a replacement nut) - there are load of cheap ones out there that are made of cheese..... if you change the nut get a genuine one or SIPs own make (you will need a tab/basket washer) - steer clear of £1.50 ones.
Once removed you could change to cosa flanged nut with cambourne washer under which requires just a socket.
Other than them a flywheel puller is required where the flywheel is threaded - older ones use a retaining clip that is supposed to draw the flywheel off the crank as the main nut is loosened but ive seen them stuck and had to use a three legged puller carefully and a holder (you can make one if need be) - Conrod holder is handy (same a lambretta) depending on what stage of build your at - just same as bretta
Nothing else really needed
Gaz
- bazman
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Congratulations on removing the engine without having to resort to hacksawing the engine bolt !!
Which leads me to think the scooters had a sheltered life , but in all honest an engine that age , will perhaps have had some removal of parts at some point !
Anyway if you want I can bring my tools down for you later on this month , and leave them with you?
Can't stay away from the pool it's great
Which leads me to think the scooters had a sheltered life , but in all honest an engine that age , will perhaps have had some removal of parts at some point !
Anyway if you want I can bring my tools down for you later on this month , and leave them with you?
Can't stay away from the pool it's great
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Thanks for that, lads. Actually, I have the SIP castellated nut tool too. I'd forgotten.
Baz, let me know when you're coming, mate
The engine bolt came out no problems at all. Undid the nut and, considering the cleanliness of the thread underneath and the serrated spring washer, I'm not convinced it had ever been off before. Bolt, which had no signs of any grease on it, pulled straight out with one hand on a mole grip .
When I get the casing cleaned up over the Christmas holidays, I'll take some pictures.
Baz, let me know when you're coming, mate
The engine bolt came out no problems at all. Undid the nut and, considering the cleanliness of the thread underneath and the serrated spring washer, I'm not convinced it had ever been off before. Bolt, which had no signs of any grease on it, pulled straight out with one hand on a mole grip .
When I get the casing cleaned up over the Christmas holidays, I'll take some pictures.
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I managed a couple of hours to clean some muck off and, the plan was then to get the clutch and flywheel off. Then hit a problem in that my castellated nut removal tool seems to have rounded off so I can't get the clutch out. Then, I couldn't get the flywheel boss off
Any ideas as to how to get the flywheel off would be gratefully received please.
It's a genuine Piaggio piston (an observation is that it's really heavy). The blow by tells me this engine had definitely done more than 1500 miles when I got it (done 4000 now). I presume you can still get piston rings OK (2.5mm)? You can also see a lot of pitting on the bottom ring, I presume from when it was stood for years.
Any ideas as to how to get the flywheel off would be gratefully received please.
It's a genuine Piaggio piston (an observation is that it's really heavy). The blow by tells me this engine had definitely done more than 1500 miles when I got it (done 4000 now). I presume you can still get piston rings OK (2.5mm)? You can also see a lot of pitting on the bottom ring, I presume from when it was stood for years.
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Was the flywheel Neptune flanged? Is there a groove for a circling? Some of them use the nut to draw the fly wheel.
Edit - Fecking autocorrect
Neptune = NUT
Circling = CIRCLIP
Edit - Fecking autocorrect
Neptune = NUT
Circling = CIRCLIP
Last edited by rosscla on Sat Jan 03, 2015 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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In the photograph I have taken the circlip and the nut off. I can see that if I put the flywheel back on, hold it, and then withdraw the nut against the circlip, then in theory I'm forcing the boss off.
I haven't tried it yet as I just think that the boss is so stuck that it'll just force the circlip out before forcing the boss off the crank.
I have tried a little heat (you can't go too hot as you are close to the laminates) and tapping the nut and outer edge of the boss. It's not for moving.
I haven't tried it yet as I just think that the boss is so stuck that it'll just force the circlip out before forcing the boss off the crank.
I have tried a little heat (you can't go too hot as you are close to the laminates) and tapping the nut and outer edge of the boss. It's not for moving.
Correct put the flywheel back on the boss, all should come off together. Nut against circlip drawing it off crank taper, simples.
Good luck.
Get the nut under tension against the circlip and give it a wee tap to shock it off the taper if the above proves fruitless, once again good luck.
Good luck.
Get the nut under tension against the circlip and give it a wee tap to shock it off the taper if the above proves fruitless, once again good luck.
- sean brady scooters
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or just use a three jaw puller if you have or can borrow one
Sean Brady Scooters - 01765 690 698