Scooterotica

Fitting my Li 150 with new piston rings. Can I wet n dry the bore or will it need a full blown honing in a workshop?

Wet and dry should do it- be careful to work up/down/left/ right etc.

you could use a full sheet of wet and dry folded into a cylinder,,insert into barrel and inflate a water ballon inside and give it a good pumping with some lube

ipman wrote:you could use a full sheet of wet and dry folded into a cylinder,,insert into barrel and inflate a water ballon inside and give it a good pumping with some lube

Where have I heard this method before

shamrockexpress wrote:

ipman wrote:you could use a full sheet of wet and dry folded into a cylinder,,insert into barrel and inflate a water ballon inside and give it a good pumping with some lube

Where have I heard this method before

Are we talking about glaze busting here or something else??????

philz wrote:

shamrockexpress wrote:

ipman wrote:you could use a full sheet of wet and dry folded into a cylinder,,insert into barrel and inflate a water ballon inside and give it a good pumping with some lube

Where have I heard this method before

Are we talking about glaze busting here or something else??????

A nods as good as a wink....

If you only have a couple of seize marks I'd use a course wet and dry on the local area then follow up with a light hone to put the cross hatch back in. I wouldn't use wet and dry all over the bore, you'd never get it consistent.

Interestingly, on a couple of recent cylinders I covered the bore with marking fluid then make the lightest of hones just to scratch the highest layer of marking fluid off. This gives you an interesting insight into the barrel wear. In the case of one of these barrels (BSA 250 single) it had worn very inconsistently and required a full re-bore to get it straight again.

It's an iron barrel with no seizing just replacing worn rings. All the barrel needs doing so I'm guessing best option is the engineers. Luckily we have a very good one where I live.

garryson abrasives used to do a "flap wheel " called a glaze buster, it had a very long shank on it so you could run the length of the bore.