Which is the best way to do this on a rally 180.Gonna restore mine from ground up and want to run a px style cylinder kit on it.I know the engine needs some machining to accept the cylinder but was also thinking of the best way to improve ignition and electrics whilst still keeping the battery,original switches etc.
Cheers Jeff
Rally 180-electronic ignition/12v dc conversion
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fraggleexport
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Ive just done this on a 76 Rally Jeff and it depends on what way you go and how precious you are to retaining the Femsa ignition. If you are then you can get a converter unit for it but do read the reviews(hmmm), and do look at the price!
Your better off IMO (if your not keeping it totally original) in getting the conversion kit from Beedspeed or SIP. This has the new stator with pick up, regulator, and Ducati Cdi (Cant remember if the brake switch and front light switch assembly are included, but you'll need them too). I got mine from Beedspeed purely because SIP seemed to be permanently out of stock. They sent me a crap quality stator plate first of all but in fairness to them they eventually got some PX stators from italy in, and sent me one of those. Its a much better quality and works fine
Your better off IMO (if your not keeping it totally original) in getting the conversion kit from Beedspeed or SIP. This has the new stator with pick up, regulator, and Ducati Cdi (Cant remember if the brake switch and front light switch assembly are included, but you'll need them too). I got mine from Beedspeed purely because SIP seemed to be permanently out of stock. They sent me a crap quality stator plate first of all but in fairness to them they eventually got some PX stators from italy in, and sent me one of those. Its a much better quality and works fine
- Muttley McLadd
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SIP do a stator that'll fit over the bearing. They're not cheap though.
If you've got a handful of PX ones, it might be worth fettling the inside til you get one to fit.
Assuming you're not going reed induction, you might need to get the (200) crank machined slightly (the lip).
If you put a bigger barrel on, you're going to move away from the smoothness of the 180, and make it more like a wheezy 200.
How fast do you want it to go? a fresh 180 with a 24 mil carb, good ignition and a clean up should be good for 100ks.
If you've got a handful of PX ones, it might be worth fettling the inside til you get one to fit.
Assuming you're not going reed induction, you might need to get the (200) crank machined slightly (the lip).
If you put a bigger barrel on, you're going to move away from the smoothness of the 180, and make it more like a wheezy 200.
How fast do you want it to go? a fresh 180 with a 24 mil carb, good ignition and a clean up should be good for 100ks.
CakeAndArseParty
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1469leach
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Thanks for the replies,to answer some of the questions first it's the 6v points type system on the bike now.As for the conversion on the engine block I wanted to long stroke the motor and use the new polini 225 kit to give the engine a nice torquey touring/fast road ability.I figure I just aswell do it now when I'm rebuilding/restoring the bike.Wanted the bike to retain as much of the original fitting,switches etc but am more interested in making a modern motor underneath with a reliable ignition system as I'm building from the ground up.Really appreciate any info as I'm considering all options and never done a rally resto before.
Cheers Jeff
Cheers Jeff
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fraggleexport
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Jeff,
Like Mutley says, the stator plate needs to be recessed a little on the face that sits into the engine but both the SIP one and the Beedspeed versions come with that already done. Just offer it up first to see it doesnt clash. Theres not much clearance there.
Im pretty sure your switches will have to change, however the outside will look the same as the original there or thereabouts..
Also have a think about (again like Mutley says) whether youre thinking Reed system or original Dellorto carb. If you want it original (I did) you can keep the standard box on. If you find that your rotary pad is shot you can also consider a reed kit that allows you to still fit the Dellorto box with just some minor fettling. Theyre on the german ebay site and I can fish the link out if you decide that. A couple of guys on another forum have used these and been as pleased as punch.
Just out of interest have you done any restoration before having a go at this? and are you going to do it all yourself? I did apart from the spraying. Either way get a budget and then add about 50% to it! Mine took about 5 months and 165 hours of shed time! (I just had to keep a log!) This didnt include the many hours reading up and digesting everything the internet had to offer about restos that were just not mentioned in the dodgy old Haynes manual:-)
Like Mutley says, the stator plate needs to be recessed a little on the face that sits into the engine but both the SIP one and the Beedspeed versions come with that already done. Just offer it up first to see it doesnt clash. Theres not much clearance there.
Im pretty sure your switches will have to change, however the outside will look the same as the original there or thereabouts..
Also have a think about (again like Mutley says) whether youre thinking Reed system or original Dellorto carb. If you want it original (I did) you can keep the standard box on. If you find that your rotary pad is shot you can also consider a reed kit that allows you to still fit the Dellorto box with just some minor fettling. Theyre on the german ebay site and I can fish the link out if you decide that. A couple of guys on another forum have used these and been as pleased as punch.
Just out of interest have you done any restoration before having a go at this? and are you going to do it all yourself? I did apart from the spraying. Either way get a budget and then add about 50% to it! Mine took about 5 months and 165 hours of shed time! (I just had to keep a log!) This didnt include the many hours reading up and digesting everything the internet had to offer about restos that were just not mentioned in the dodgy old Haynes manual:-)
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1469leach
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Cheers for the comments, Yes I have done a few restos including paintwork.The only thing I can't do is welding on the sheet metal sections.Still undecided about the motor root and which way to go with the electrics. Defo gonna run an electric ignition for reliability/ongoing maintenance tho.Keep the info coming its been gret food for thought.
cheers Jeff
cheers Jeff
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Ginch
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If you're really considering going all DC, then you should read this - http://www.scootercentral.net/forums/vi ... =15&t=6431
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1469leach
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Thanks,very usefull info.just thinking that if you installed a sip speedo then the rpm gauge won't work on a full dc system due to the fact that the speedo measures rpm via the pulses from the ac power feed to the lights. 
