Sneak Peak
cheers got me thinking
live life your a long time dead
I pop the forks back in the frame Friday and take a few more pictures.ducksta wrote:cheers got me thinking
A small update, I've been working away a bit lately so things have been a little slow in the shed. Been busy making moulds and parts from them too.
Seat and Turbo flywheel cover mould.
Tube for the tail can.
Front brake upgrade, I got the weld on convertion plate from Beedspeed. The master cylinder from ebay for £25, its from a large Honda.
Seat and Turbo flywheel cover mould.
Tube for the tail can.
Front brake upgrade, I got the weld on convertion plate from Beedspeed. The master cylinder from ebay for £25, its from a large Honda.
If you've got moulds to make a XL horncover, even in fibreglass, you could potentially be onto a few quids worth of orders. I'd take 2 for a start.
ETS horncovers and headset tops would be something that may also have a small but potentionally worthwhile demand, XL headset also worth copying if you can be arsed.
ETS horncovers and headset tops would be something that may also have a small but potentionally worthwhile demand, XL headset also worth copying if you can be arsed.
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The seat too.Juan wrote:If you've got moulds to make a XL horncover, even in fibreglass, you could potentially be onto a few quids worth of orders. I'd take 2 for a start.
ETS horncovers and headset tops would be something that may also have a small but potentionally worthwhile demand, XL headset also worth copying if you can be arsed.
The horncover was a one off to be honest, it is about 50mm longer than a standard one to bring the bottom part closer to the hugger mudguard. I had no idea the XL stuff was getting that hard to get hold of.
XL stuff can still be gotten but having decent fixing points included is becoming increasingly rare. Got a few horncasts but none in a complete state of affairs and no apparent replacements unless you'll accept the XL2 version which is bulky and ugly. You can try to cast a blind eye but it'll always catch your line of vision as soon as you go near it.
Well it's been a while for this build. But I've been in the shed for a few days over the Christmas break. Work has put the brakes on things for me a lot, been a way alot this year including China, Mexico and Denmark. I powder coated the engine cases in a fine black texture. This makes them look better I think, also the natural finish on the Quattrini cases was pretty shocking really. There were bad casting mark/defects and drag marks too.
Engine mounts fitted, and bearings in the freezer ready to go in. Also made a pair of nylon main bearing so I can check the timmings/TDC etc.
First problem is the flywheel hits on the cases, a little fettling then it hits the next thing on the cases. This time the outside of the tranfer ports.
To check the timming I made a digital unit using a rotory encoder and display unit used for lathe and milling tables. Better than using a plastic timming disc and easyer to read, I'm just about on the verge of wearing glasses. All parts available from Ebay etc. The special flywheel nut is made by SIP/Pinasco for a timming disc. All parts come in at under £40. It also has the ability to be zeroed in any possition.
Engine mounts fitted, and bearings in the freezer ready to go in. Also made a pair of nylon main bearing so I can check the timmings/TDC etc.
First problem is the flywheel hits on the cases, a little fettling then it hits the next thing on the cases. This time the outside of the tranfer ports.
To check the timming I made a digital unit using a rotory encoder and display unit used for lathe and milling tables. Better than using a plastic timming disc and easyer to read, I'm just about on the verge of wearing glasses. All parts available from Ebay etc. The special flywheel nut is made by SIP/Pinasco for a timming disc. All parts come in at under £40. It also has the ability to be zeroed in any possition.
Timming values as follows.
Bearing fitted next all bearing into the freezer over night. Just prior to fitting I put then into a Thermos mug with a lid and give them a blast with an air duster to really chill them down. This and a gentle warm with the blow lamp and they just go in by hand. Never been a real fan of hammering in bearings.
Next problem, the screws from the DRT cluch basket also hit the case. So a bit more filing. The basket was also very, very tight to get in. A real pain to be honest.
New gear shift selector and uprated spring and balls fitted next, also DRT. I like to use two short pieces of 6mm nylon tube and my hand inside a plastic bag for this job. Saves hunting around the shed for ball bearings.
Gear cogs installed and shimmed then the whole shaft pulled in using a multi puller/pusher from SIP. Again never been a real fan of hammering home shafts and bearings.