Scooterotica

Looking to do an engine upgrade with a new kit and crank, what are the pro's and cons between using a standard 58mm crank or going for a 60mm with packer plate?

Against is that the big end touches the engine block so you need to get it machined also you need to have the mouth of the block touched up in places where the rod touches.

Magalluf wrote:Against is that the big end touches the engine block so you need to get it machined also you need to have the mouth of the block touched up in places where the rod touches.

Sometimes you don't need to do that on a 60mm crank but you normally need to do this if you go up to 62 etc.

Lamaddict wrote:

Magalluf wrote:Against is that the big end touches the engine block so you need to get it machined also you need to have the mouth of the block touched up in places where the rod touches.

Sometimes you don't need to do that on a 60mm crank but you normally need to do this if you go up to 62 etc.

As above, I run a 60' went straight in, no probs.

I wonder if there is a diference between 150 and 200 casings

Some 60s fit without needing casing work, others don't. This is more about the crank/conrod rather than the casing.

don't dwell to long

Yamaha 110 mm rod cranks can be 60mm stroke and fit with no need to machine the case.
BGM 60 mm full circle crank is an example of a 60 mm stroke crank that fits with no modifications required.