Wiring up a GS Ignition Switch.

[wax]

Just one thing stands in my way of power wheeling up the street and annoying my neighbours: a GS ignition switch.

I have had a look at various wiring GS wiring diagrams, but i am none-the-wiser for it. I also spent 2 hours on my knees in the garage screwing the live from the stator into various terminals and noting down the other terminals that came live when you turned the key to different positions, but then i got bored.

I have fitted a 221cc malossi engine into a 152L2 frame and i have a simple PX to VBB loom, so none of the colours are anything like a GS loom. And there is no battery either.

Any way, i will make up the wires to the bulbs, horn, light switch etc from scraps of wire i have in the shed, so the colour of the wires is irrelevant really, all i need to know is:

1, which one do i plug the green 'Ignition Kill' wire from the CDi into. Does this just short the circuit to earth to kill the engine?
2, Where do i plug the 'main Yellow live' from the regulator, and which terminals do i use for side-lights, main feed to the Dip/Main Beam switch
3, i have 2 other lives from the regulator (one red and one black) that need to go to the horn and rear brake light, i presume?

The switch has 4 positions. I presume this is: 1: Ignition Off, 2: ignition on, but no Lights, 3: Ignition on & side Lights 4: Ignition on and Main Lights, just like a Lambretta GP / Series 3?

[wax]

Correction, the switch has 5 positions? Is one a 'Park" mode, so you can leave your battery powered side lights on? Not really of any use to me really........

[tony]

Hi wax.
Try this.

http://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wi ... o.batt.pdf

[firekdp]

Hi wax.
Try this.

http://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wi ... o.batt.pdf

That drawing is using an 8 pole switch originally for a DC ignition system, which is why it has to have the strange engine kill positions (if you're running without lights you have to kill the engine to put the lights on!).
The 10 pole, I believe , is for magneto ignition. But unless you know the specific model it came off and get a drawing for it you will need to ring out all the possible connections. But rather than put power through it, use an ohmmeter or continuity tester.

[wax]

Thanks Tony, but my switch has totally different coloured wires and numbers..... Bugger

It must be the battery model switch then, that i have, as i have an ignition kill in the middle, when you try and turn the lights on? I have just decided to wire the lights on permanently and have the switch just control the ignition, there seems to be no other option, unless i can get a different switch? Its a '59, so no real probs with getting an MOT anyway

Many thanks for the help. I will post some pics when its been dynoed.........

[tony]

Mmm. I remember spending ages trying to work this system out and there is the issue you mention. I am sure I have seen a solution printed somewhere on how to do this. It might of been beedspeed. If you ever suss it out let me know!
Good luck with the dyno

[firekdp]

It must be the battery model switch then, that i have, as i have an ignition kill in the middle, when you try and turn the lights on?

Not necessarily, if you wire them wrong every ignition switch will act as a kill in the middle!!

[tony]

The circuits overlap on the standard gs key switch. This is what causes the problem.

[wax]

I am with you Tony. It seems, no matter how i wire this thing, it will not do what i want. I tested every terminal in every switch position and wrote all the results down on a crib sheet, and its impossible. If anyone knows where to get a switch that is upto the job, please tell.....................

[tony]

Wax, I am sure I saw a diagram where you linked two circuits and kept it all working except for the town/sidelight circuit which then remained on with the headlights. I can't find it anywhere. If you have a spare switch I wouldn't mind having another look?