Scooterotica

having just fried a 5 plate clutch again I,m starting to think im missing somthing.

i build the clutch, check seperation of the plates got up rated malossi spings and af center spring the strong one. not a clutch for the weak wristed.

start with a little drag then adjust this out till theres just no creep with the lever fully in.

engine is making 22bhp on li150 @ 4.6:1 in fourth.

is this just too much for the clutch ?

To me it sounds like it's disengaging too late and burning up the plates in the process. What works for me is the standard 1-2mm play at the handlebar lever, that usually gets a full disengage at about 3/4 pull (6 plate fox hat set up, and standard clutch). Never had to run super hard springs or center spring in any motor (TS1, RB20, GT186, Suzuki 190).

I think you have too much . you dont need a centre spring in a 5 plate it will stop the clutch working fully (to much spring compression)
With the clutch assembled and fully depressed with a clutch compressor you should have around 1.5mm clearance between the top plate and first friction plate. Any less and it will drag, and more is likely to result in slipage. Adjust clearance by using thicker or thinner steels and or friction plates.

My clutch cable has gone again , any tips please as when I last changed it , it engaged the gears nice and even found neutral lol now since it snapped at weekend I'm finding it difficult when at stand still in traffic to locate gears and now can't find neutral at all only unless I stall it when parking ??? Is this a case of adjusting clutch cable a fraction more or gear cables thanks

Where did the cable snap at the trunnion end ? did it snap there before ? it sounds like you have some clutch Drag if it stalls as you are trying to get it into neutral when you park up , does it creep away with the clutch lever pulled in ?

The drag can maybe be solved by clutch adjustment but it may be worthwhile whipping the casing side of to give the clutch a check over

I had a similar problem that was resolved by using a bell crown without a central locating pin. The locating pin was sticking which was not obvious during the build.

Grumpy225 wrote:To me it sounds like it's disengaging too late and burning up the plates in the process. What works for me is the standard 1-2mm play at the handlebar lever, that usually gets a full disengage at about 3/4 pull (6 plate fox hat set up, and standard clutch). Never had to run super hard springs or center spring in any motor (TS1, RB20, GT186, Suzuki 190).

Right,

with 1-2mm at handle bars i get creep/drag,
under compression i get full seperation, no coil bound springs.

My cable snapped this time at ball bit that sits in clutch lever

No offence Simon, buts its a lot easier to follow if you open your own thread.

simonwwfc wrote:My cable snapped this time at ball bit that sits in clutch lever

Did you grease the cable end ?