agusto experts please advise

[camel]

motor spec
225 muggello reed valve
30 phbh dellorto
ads 3 pipe
right ive set the agusto 6000 to retard to around 16 degrees around 6-7 k rpm
the motor pulls cleanly through the gears but today while trying to cruise around 6k i experienced some pinking so i backed off
just would like some thoughts and a second opinion before i make some adjustments
many thanks in advance

[Darrell Taylor]

you say 16 degrees around 6-7 k and cruising around 6k are they from a rev counter or estimated as i would think it might be a bit lower down where the increased advance is doing its job of burning up the fuel

you could mark your throttle off at 1/4 1/2 and 3/4 then take it for a ride find the throttle position that it pinks at then richen up the jetting based around the position
i would start with going a touch richer on the pilot jet and poss 2 clips richer on the needle as the extra advance thru the midrange burns off the fuel delivery that was previously set for a lower ignition advance

ps not an expert but above should help u out

[camel]

yes 6k cruising is from a small rev counter,but the ignition retard was set by ear i must admit watching the strobe retard to 15/16 degrees at max revs.....so it could realistically be retarding further...
its a new build motor and has "safely" been set up carb wise on a dyno and im experiencing some 4 stroking when not accellarating so im thinking im getting plenty of fuel.
Darrell thanks for your input....do you think too much retard could be causing this problem?(i can feel some jokes coming here so bear with me guys)

[Darrell Taylor]

the extra advance burns loads of extra fuel as an example a 35mm mikuni normally on a 20/22.5 pilot on std ignition wont run nicely at all on 25 + pilot sizes but with an augusto or mtech runs sweet as on up to 35 pilot sizes so if jetting was set on std ignition youll have to start again in the ignition areas that have now changed so 1/4 and 1/2 and 3/4 will be more advanced so need more fuel but the top end will have poss 2-4 degrees more retard so may need a smaller main jet ,but if runs clean on it id leave the main jet

?was it set up to the reed and ads 3 as reed is normally 10-15%richer and ads3 with its lower rpm peak will need richer jetting than a higher rpm pipe

[Darrell Taylor]

just noticed you said retard set by ear 16 degrees at max rpm

the ads 3 peaks low say 6k but revs out to 8 /9k on a throttle test in neutral so may be over advanced for the low ads peak ,try to get it to 16 just after peak power rpm so a rev counter check will be best

[camel]

just noticed you said retard set by ear 16 degrees at max rpm

the ads 3 peaks low say 6k but revs out to 8 /9k on a throttle test in neutral so may be over advanced for the low ads peak ,try to get it to 16 just after peak power rpm so a rev counter check will be best

im glad you said that....this is the way i was thinking too...
just needed someone to back my thoughts up
i,l reset things to the rev counter this time
cheers for your input again
camel

[Adam_Winstone]

You could be playing into the demon's hands!

Too much ignition advance will make you pink, however, 'backing off' will result in the revs dropping off and the timing advancing again, which in turn can lead it to run hotter One of the commonly reports from people with EGTs and advance/retard ignitions is that they can't ride slowly with packs of standard machines or their revs drop off, ignition advances and temps creep up. In this case you either need to keep the revs up to retard the timing and bring temps down or rotate the stator so that the whole of the range is retarded a little.... or just cane it everywhere!

Adam

[Darrell Taylor]

thats correct adam, but only when the fuelling is not readjusted to suit ,the guys with egt,s should be identifying the throttle positions and making the relevant changes to jetting, seems a shame having the tools but not using them ,almost every jap bike has a similar ignition curve but also have fueling to suit from the factory
with these boxes you identify the peak power rpm then retard back straight after so the setting should be based around a known peak rpm for the kit/pipe combo in use so a guy with an ads3 should be set much different to the guy with a franspeed race ,a flick thru the dyno pages on here should find rpm values to work to for anyone fitting a unit

the trick is to fuel the curve but is not commonly known most people fit a box and get a big wow from the results as its just leaned out the whole range up to 3/4 without making a single jetting change ,,at 5k a 35 pilot at 20 degrees is safer than a 20 pilot at 18 degrees
but ignition,compression, pipe dimension and fueling all play a role there like a combination lock to decifer on the dyno to find the best results

[Darrell Taylor]

theres also the possibility if youve recently changed a few things that you might have an air leak
have you leakdown tested?

[Yanker]

with these boxes you identify the peak power rpm then retard back straight after so the setting should be based around a known peak rpm for the kit/pipe combo in use

Rule Nr.1

Or even 'better?' ensure the ign retard starts as the power band starts, and finishes as it peaks.