Scooterotica

Where on the arm do you take the 10mm out? Does it matter if its at the bottom, top or middle? Cheers Pete.

I've tended to shorten mine nearer to the pivot as it gives a bigger weld area if that makes sense.

What's the theory there then?

Dryballs wrote:What's the theory there then?

To make the clutch heavier.

Dryballs wrote:What's the theory there then?

Good question! 'Bull-worker work-out on your commuter bike"? But you would have to operate your front brake cable via a gear change arm to get the same effect on the right wrist for balance?

Muttley McLadd wrote:

Dryballs wrote:What's the theory there then?

To make the clutch heavier.

Like he says


Not enough travel on the clutch=clutch (not arm) problem!?

Some dog leg clutch levers don't have quite as much stroke so don't pull the clutch in enough. I've not tried shortening the clutch arm myself but have been told that 10mm removed doesn't make the cluch too heavy. But, as Yanker said, the first thing to get right is the clearance between the top plate and first friction disc. Needs to be ideally between 1.5mm and 2mm. Too little and you will suffer drag and too much and you risk clutch slip. MB springs are about the best ones imho, strong but not so strong as to make pulling the lever in a problem.

coaster wrote:Some dog leg clutch levers don't have quite as much stroke so don't pull the clutch in enough. I've not tried shortening the clutch arm myself but have been told that 10mm removed doesn't make the cluch too heavy.

Ah did not think of that aspect! Cheaper option than a decent set of those 'adjustable' dog-leg levers too.

Used a clutch arm to add feel for a reverse-pull front drum once upon a time. Guess the brake arm would be too short to use on the clutch, and the return spring length would deff be a problem.

Is the 'shortening' process a simple cut, vee and weld?

tbh I have only ever extended them by 1cm in order to reduce clutch lever leverage but the way i do them is to make a slash cut on an angle instead of a straight cut across ,as this enables a greater area of weld .

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To make the clutch heavier.[/quote]

I think i may have got this slightly wrong. I was under the impression that by shortening the arm you would make the clutch action lighter. Thinking about it now it makes sense that it would make it stiffer due to the arm being shorter. I haven't got a problem with drag it's that the action is a bit stiff even with a Yam lever fitted. So by adding 1cm to the arm as Sean suggests that will that make the action lighter?

mr TERROR,since building my latest engine ive had the clutch in and out i dont know how many times trying different spring combos due the stiff yam lever action,ive also tried one of those "easy clutch" gizmos as a few friends have been using them,whilst trying to adjust this gizmo i thought to myself,im struggling now imagine on the side of the road what a ballache it would be....so i fecked it off,my last resort was to fit a NEW NYLON LINED CABLE,..i never really believed they made such a difference but i can assure you they do,from needing virtually 2 hands to pull the lever in its gone from that to a lovley silky action...so if you havnt invested in a new nylon lined cable,do so...it cured my woes