stopping power for a Lambretta isnt limited to hydraulics

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alcoholic maniacs sc
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Despite everybody and his uncle Tom having a facination with fitting hydraulic disc brakes to Li 150's in a health and safety frenzy, many old hands may have forgotten that a correctly set up cable or drum brake will stand the scooter on end as well as a hydraulic one and when not racing round snetterton like the majority of Rapidotour225stage8250 kitted engines clocking up 250 miles per summer, offer responsive braking two up and in emergencies.
step one; as Joey Fontane suggested - use a good quality flat coil cable and not the cheap spring coil cables that compress.
step two; make sure the inner cable is the best you can get for clutch/front brake, they vary.
step three; reverse pull the bugger and shorten the cable as far as it will go and allow free movement when the wheel turns.
step four; another of mr Fontanes garage floor titbits; slide a braded fuel pipe over the last 12 inches of cable to protect it and stop flexing and expansion.
step five; chuck the brake pivot arm in the bin and fit a clutch arm from your garage shelf thats been hanging around for years in a homage to the riders of the 70's who appear to be still alive and not disabled in accidents involving lack of braking power.
step six; perform front end stoppies outside the local bus terminus to encourge kids under the age of 40 that scooters are cool.
step seven; this may involve falling off but i will be safe in the knowledge that i spent £3.50 and can now outbrake a Ducatti 748.
my next trick will be to make an ABS system out of the remains of a pocket watch and some tights.Thanks to Joey for technical advice and toilet duck for a plastic spacer.
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RICSPEED
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:D :lol:
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coaster
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There's supposed to be a reason why reverse pulling a front drum brake isn't a good idea but I'm feked if I can remember what it is now :oops:
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alcoholic maniacs sc
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coaster wrote:There's supposed to be a reason why reverse pulling a front drum brake isn't a good idea but I'm feked if I can remember what it is now :oops:
better rack your memory quick i've been driving like i stole it with my new found retardation skills!
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paulmgreen
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Like all those steps in the process.... top work fella ... :D :D :D
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Muppet
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alcoholic maniacs sc wrote:
coaster wrote:There's supposed to be a reason why reverse pulling a front drum brake isn't a good idea but I'm feked if I can remember what it is now :oops:
better rack your memory quick i've been driving like i stole it with my new found retardation skills!
wet roads + front brake that dont got much between on and off is one reason,
muppet,

for £3.50 dont ride fast wen it rains an stick with it
Last edited by Muppet on Sun Dec 13, 2015 7:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
C’est la vie
tavspeed
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think the reverse pull is more suited to the cable operated disc,on the drum system,when the shoes become worn,the cam can turn too much and lock the wheel up,if i remember correctly,think there was a thread on here once upon a time about it.
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RICSPEED
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that would happen either way
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coaster
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alcoholic maniacs sc wrote:
coaster wrote:There's supposed to be a reason why reverse pulling a front drum brake isn't a good idea but I'm feked if I can remember what it is now :oops:
better rack your memory quick i've been driving like i stole it with my new found retardation skills!
Most of the improvement with the reverse pull is down to having a straighter more efficient pull but I have a feeling I've read or been told that the dipping suspension has a tightening effect, I can't for the life of me see why though :?
warts
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The adjustment with the disc at least is fairly fine between All or Nothing (Small Faces). Too tight, it will drag till solid, too loose and you just glide.
But sounds like a good improvement.
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