new clutch may be needed

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camel
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ok subject covered many times(im just after simple answers).....
took the ts1 for a spin sunday for a local rideout...anyway some cheeky so and so on an auto pulled up at the lights indicating he wanted a race.....not to let the side down i gunned my ts1 and sorted him out....anyhow the clutch slippped....took it to about 75 but realised i wasnt doing the motor any favours
i dont want a spider from here and a crownwheel from there i want an off the shelf clutch that i can fit and not mess about..
any suggestions in this price concious world were in at the moment would be greatly appreciate
im running a peaky tuned ts1 with an old mb dev tour
i like the sound of the af cassette....but ive never spent this kind of dough on a clutch before
uh currently i have a 16x46 li 150 box with a std deepened crownwheel with a std 4 plates and stiff springs and a centre spring
thanx in advance
10 inch Terror
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AF clutch every time for me. They do 2 versions a road version for mildly tuned engines @ £230 ish and a race version for higher tuned motors @ £450 ish. Simply fit and forget.
camel
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are the plates and springs the same spec between the two?i was led to believe that the difference in cost was due to manufacturing process of one being cast and the other machined from billet?....ie is the cheaper one just as good
10 inch Terror
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camel wrote:are the plates and springs the same spec between the two?i was led to believe that the difference in cost was due to manufacturing process of one being cast and the other machined from billet?....ie is the cheaper one just as good
You could be right there, it may only be the manufacturing process that determines the price. All the internal components could be the Same.
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soulsurfer
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It would appear they're not the same...
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 8&start=30
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drunkmunkey6969
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Without wanting to offend you.....I only ask in order to try and save you some money.....but is your existing clutch set up properly? The reason I ask us that you say you have 4 plates in a deep basket.....and so often when you compress the clutch you can see such a setup can leaves too much play and the springs can't take it up. So if you have a deep basket and standard spider, try running a standard surflex B plate and a 1.5 steel at the bottom to ensure nothing slips under the spider, and then 4 'thin' green plates and a combo if 1/1.2mm steels until you get correct amount of play at the top (ideally no less than 1mm and no more that 2.5mm free play when compressed).

Of course I'd you can't be arsed with that, just buy the AF cassette.
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coaster
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My 4 plate clutch started to slip when I fitted the Avanti top end. I already had some Camlam 5 plate thin steels (1,2mm) and friction plates mixed and matched with standard surflex plates and steals until I had just under 1.5mm clearance on full comression (usiung the compressor) following advice from Diablo on another thread. I have standard Indian clutch bell and spider and MB springs. The result doesn't slip and is no heavier with a dog leg MB lever fitted.
Beanhead
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i'm using the AF cassette one in my sprinter, the cheaper one, i'd defo use another one of these, in fact when it comes to replacing the one in my muggy i'll be changing to one of these. heard nothing but good reports about these.
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drunkmunkey6969
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Beanhead wrote:i'm using the AF cassette one in my sprinter, the cheaper one, i'd defo use another one of these, in fact when it comes to replacing the one in my muggy i'll be changing to one of these. heard nothing but good reports about these.
Thats good to know, im thinking of trying one myself. What BHP does your sprinter kick out?
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camel
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drunkmunkey6969 wrote:Without wanting to offend you.....I only ask in order to try and save you some money.....but is your existing clutch set up properly? The reason I ask us that you say you have 4 plates in a deep basket.....and so often when you compress the clutch you can see such a setup can leaves too much play and the springs can't take it up. So if you have a deep basket and standard spider, try running a standard surflex B plate and a 1.5 steel at the bottom to ensure nothing slips under the spider, and then 4 'thin' green plates and a combo if 1/1.2mm steels until you get correct amount of play at the top (ideally no less than 1mm and no more that 2.5mm free play when compressed).

Of course I'd you can't be arsed with that, just buy the AF cassette.
lol i dont take offence to advice and opinions.....this is why were here......altho comparing gearboxes to bridges did make me chuckle!!!!
i did surface grind the top plate to 2.5mm and deepended the crownwheel myslelf.....im using surflex b green plates...which i changed over the winter...mind you the std surflex corkes seemed to work better last year.
i,l tally up the stack up i have then and see if i can give it more clearance before i invest
many thanks
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