Dragster brake bleeding
I`m about to overhaul the rear brake on a Dragster, apparently they can be a bit of a basxard to bleed any helpful tips would be appreciated.
Keep on keepin on
get the grimeca caliper with the bleed nipple at the top 
or remove the caliper and wedge some wood between the 2 pistons turn the caliper up so the nipple is on top and bleed it that way best with 2 people
or remove the caliper and wedge some wood between the 2 pistons turn the caliper up so the nipple is on top and bleed it that way best with 2 people
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm
Thanks, I`ll give that a try
Keep on keepin on
There is an art to bleeding the Dragster calipers.
It took me ages to come up with a technique that worked reliably.
There are a few tricks to make it easier:
(1) Take the nipples out and wrap the thread with white PTFE tape. One of the problems when bleeding is air seeping back through the thread. The tape stops that from happening.
(2) Remove the caliper from the frame, put old pads in and using a large flat blade screwdriver squeeze the pads back as far as they'll go with the bleed nipple open and facing UP. I clear pipe on the nipple into a pot will stop the fluid getting onto the red paint and stripping it. Too late for mine, the red paint is all gone!
(3) When the pads are as far back as they'll go, close the nipple, remount the caliper with its new pads.
(4) Use a bleed kit with a pipe with a one way valve on the end. The pipe should go UP HILL from the nipple and end in a pot to collect the overflow. Overflowed fluid is disposed of, do not reuse it!
(5) Have a fresh quantity of fluid to hand as you gently open and close the brake lever. Make sure the piston in the bottom of the fluid reservoir is never exposed to air, otherwise you'll get air into the system, and guess what? You'll end up starting again!!
(6) Pull the brake lever and release gently. If you move the lever too quickly a small fountain of fluid will shoot up out of the reservoir and end up going down your paintwork! Not good!
(7) If its going well you should see a few bubble of air come out of the nipple, along with some fluid. The reason the bleed kit pipe goes up hill is to make sure the fluid stays down against the nipple and any air bubble float up and away from the nipple. This means that when you release the brake lever (Slowly!) the air won't get sucked back into the calliper.
(8 ) When you see a good 8 to 10 inches of fluid in the pipe coming up from the nipple, and you are not seeing any more bubbles, close the nipple.
(9) Pull and release the lever a few more times (gently!). You should now feel the pressure start to firm up and the caliper is now pumped full of fluid and the piston and pads are compressed towards the brake disk.
(10) Make sure the fluid is the correct level in the reservoir, refit cover, and the job should now be done.
I suspect you've just been unlucky so far, and not been furnished by the trick used by someone who has doen this job successfully many times. You will only have knackered if you can't do step (2) and press the pistons back, i.e. one is jammed solid. The other one you spot straight away is if you are getting fluid leaking through the rubber piston seals. Otherwise I think you'll find they are actually OK, just a b***ard to bleed!
_________________________
this might help
It took me ages to come up with a technique that worked reliably.
There are a few tricks to make it easier:
(1) Take the nipples out and wrap the thread with white PTFE tape. One of the problems when bleeding is air seeping back through the thread. The tape stops that from happening.
(2) Remove the caliper from the frame, put old pads in and using a large flat blade screwdriver squeeze the pads back as far as they'll go with the bleed nipple open and facing UP. I clear pipe on the nipple into a pot will stop the fluid getting onto the red paint and stripping it. Too late for mine, the red paint is all gone!
(3) When the pads are as far back as they'll go, close the nipple, remount the caliper with its new pads.
(4) Use a bleed kit with a pipe with a one way valve on the end. The pipe should go UP HILL from the nipple and end in a pot to collect the overflow. Overflowed fluid is disposed of, do not reuse it!
(5) Have a fresh quantity of fluid to hand as you gently open and close the brake lever. Make sure the piston in the bottom of the fluid reservoir is never exposed to air, otherwise you'll get air into the system, and guess what? You'll end up starting again!!
(6) Pull the brake lever and release gently. If you move the lever too quickly a small fountain of fluid will shoot up out of the reservoir and end up going down your paintwork! Not good!
(7) If its going well you should see a few bubble of air come out of the nipple, along with some fluid. The reason the bleed kit pipe goes up hill is to make sure the fluid stays down against the nipple and any air bubble float up and away from the nipple. This means that when you release the brake lever (Slowly!) the air won't get sucked back into the calliper.
(8 ) When you see a good 8 to 10 inches of fluid in the pipe coming up from the nipple, and you are not seeing any more bubbles, close the nipple.
(9) Pull and release the lever a few more times (gently!). You should now feel the pressure start to firm up and the caliper is now pumped full of fluid and the piston and pads are compressed towards the brake disk.
(10) Make sure the fluid is the correct level in the reservoir, refit cover, and the job should now be done.
I suspect you've just been unlucky so far, and not been furnished by the trick used by someone who has doen this job successfully many times. You will only have knackered if you can't do step (2) and press the pistons back, i.e. one is jammed solid. The other one you spot straight away is if you are getting fluid leaking through the rubber piston seals. Otherwise I think you'll find they are actually OK, just a b***ard to bleed!
_________________________
this might help
gilera runner caliper fits
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air dont seep from the nipple air gets trapped in the top thats why it has to be laid flat if air seeped then your brakes would never work properly 
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read (1) again it seeps when bleeding not when fully bled or the brakes wouldnt work , im only tryin to help dont slate me 4 it 
