Scooterotica

hi,
which way is the best to convert my ts1 and would i get any big advantages thanks

Red runs a TS 240 built by Jase Frost

simplest is to look at using a long stroke crank 60mm or 62mm and keep the 70mm bore but port timings will need to be corected and base packers / toping and tailing of the barrel needed ,the larger stroke cranks require case to be machined to clear the rod end

Thanks for info guys sounds like what i,m after more torque nice one

The easy option i found was to fit a 60mm crank which did not require casing mods , 1mm basepacker/gasket from AF, no head gasket and dowl'd head. Vast improvement to tourque over the 58mm crank, still runs 4.8 gearing and a race pipe and pulls very well.

Mb used to do 64mm cranks and last year i think i read about 66mm & 69mm cranks
I'm no expert but was told once over 60mm a 120mm rod was needed to stop vibration ????

Andy Pickering wrote:Red runs a TS 240 built by Jase Frost

It's a 230

Recently done mine to a 240 (238) for this season, spec is:

71mm touring tune by chisel speed running no gaskets
60-115 mb crank
30mm mikuni
Taffy pipe
m tech
Dynod at 21bhp at chisel speed

fuel consumptions good and sits nicely at 70-75 with very little vibration and plenty of torque.

eden wrote:

scoot gp wrote:Recently done mine to a 240 (238) for this season, spec is:

71mm touring tune by chisel speed running no gaskets
60-115 mb crank
30mm mikuni
Taffy pipe
m tech
Dynod at 21bhp at chisel speed

fuel consumptions good and sits nicely at 70-75 with very little vibration and plenty of torque.

interested what the torque figure was when it was dyno'd

Graphs still in the car, i'll take a look in the morning.

bazman wrote:The easy option i found was to fit a 60mm crank which did not require casing mods , 1mm basepacker/gasket from AF, no head gasket and dowl'd head. Vast improvement to tourque over the 58mm crank, still runs 4.8 gearing and a race pipe and pulls very well.

this also is a 230 unless you running 71mm piston.