It's doing me (ts1) head in.

[Ihateyoubutler]

Trying to set the squish up on a ts1 engine.Got some 2mm solder to check it with, so how much force do you apply? Also, what is the general opinion of the correct squish for a road going scooter?
Thanks.

[sean brady scooters]

1.2mm......to 1.4mm i would say would be pretty good for a road scoot
you need to apply as much force as is required to turn your motor around TDC........and so to get a correct reading on your squashed solder...........

[J1MS]

^ as above ^

[Dazza]

Gonna have to read that in installments Eden

[J1MS]

Once out of curiosity wanting to know the limits of "tight on the squish" clearance, I decided to run an engine squishing the head up till I lost power, for this I used a spare 200 engine with a 66mm bore, 22mm carb, and a clubman fitted, electronic AF flywheel, std GP MDP Crank 58mm stroke. The engine originaly free revved past 10,000 rpm, and loaded pulled 8,000 rpm in the gears, squish was 1.2mm. I brought the squish down in 0.1mm increments re building and letting the engine settle down then running back to full revs with no Ill effects till. The power started to fade sharpley at 0.8mm squish clearance and peak free revs had dropped to just over 9,500 rpm this I would think was the point that on my shortened barrel the piston was now hitting the head at revs, the con rod I would think was stretching more than the squish clearance allowed.... When ridden on the road the scooter was well down on power...... when the engine was stripped marks could be seen where the head had Impacted with the piston.....I didnt use a head gasket and material from the barrel was removed in a lathe from the top of the cylinder only 0.1mm at a time.... The barrel was to be shortened for a Suzuki conversion so it was no big deal to do this.....It was done just to see how tight you could run before damage would be done using a std rod...... useless info I know...but it kept me buisy for a couple of weekends...I was just curious to see how tight you could go before it got too close...

[Ihateyoubutler]

As usual, thanks for the replies.

[jonny snatchsniffer]

ive just tried the solder route as thats what i had, but the lead free solder did not work as i couldnt get the piston past tdc to measure it, i now have invested in some plasticine and when i have finished with it i will make a plasticine scooter

[TS1-200]

Not trying to teach you lot how to suck eggs( I think thats how the saying goes) but I find it best to use thinner solder, 2 or 3 lenths twisted together it seems to squash up easier.

[jonny snatchsniffer]

well i just used some plasticine and it worked very well indeed just gotta lightly oil the piston and head so it dont stick, then measure it, mine came out at 1.2 mm so no messing about