R6 rear shock
modify it .. you need to remove the original bushes from both ends and replace with brass or nylon ones available of chiggy / ebay or what ever
- like this -
you will allso need this -
and also dont tighten the shock nuts ..you can possibly snap the shock if you do .. tighten but back off a bit to allow the shock to pivot on the mount ...you can get nyloc half nuts or use a drop of loctite
- like this -
you will allso need this -
and also dont tighten the shock nuts ..you can possibly snap the shock if you do .. tighten but back off a bit to allow the shock to pivot on the mount ...you can get nyloc half nuts or use a drop of loctite
Its in bits scooter club: www.facebook.com/groups/132415046859320
taken off chiggys site http://lambrettaupgrades.co.uk/newr1shocks.aspx
" I put these on the softest settings but I can set them up to your requirements first if you ask. The R1 is 300mm from centre to centre, so exactly the same as a standard S3 shock should be.
The R6 shock is 10mm shorter than the R1 and gives that little bit extra clearance between the frame and manifold, so is ideal for anyone running a reed block and big carb. on the right hand side such as a TS1, RB, Imola Etc. OR have gone for a 60+ mm crank and need a packing plate."
" I put these on the softest settings but I can set them up to your requirements first if you ask. The R1 is 300mm from centre to centre, so exactly the same as a standard S3 shock should be.
The R6 shock is 10mm shorter than the R1 and gives that little bit extra clearance between the frame and manifold, so is ideal for anyone running a reed block and big carb. on the right hand side such as a TS1, RB, Imola Etc. OR have gone for a 60+ mm crank and need a packing plate."
I am playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order.
there several types of r6 shock ive converted several hundred over the last 8 yrs and have never found any lenght difference between the R1/R6 im not saying its not possible though just check yours has a vertical resiviour
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