Early S3 Bridge Piece

[sideout]

I'm restoring a '62 Li 150 Series 3. It came as a loose collection of bits

It's now being rebuilt and the bridge piece is too high where it should meet the tunnel part of the legshields. I think I read somewhere (maybe on another forum in a previous life ) that the early S3 machines had different bridge pieces.

My question is, are they normal Series 2 bridge pieces, or "special" ones produced for these early Series 3 machines?

Which ever, I've got a late Series 3 bridge piece which I'll swap for one of the shallower ones. Anyone interested?

Cheers,

Nigel

[Monty]

Got the same problem on my 63 It has a lower hump, went through 2 chrome and stainless series 3 ones and a series 2, gave up in the end and spent ages trying to weld the old teabag that came with it.
Its OK but after been on and off a few times is starting to rust a bit. Hard to weld rust.
I would be interested in any supplier making them but want to try it for size first.

PS the rubber floor mats don't fit the raised hump either. I had to cut it and glue the middle part on the bridge. Hey Ho

[rog60]

Got the same problem on my 63 It has a lower hump, went through 2 chrome and stainless series 3 ones and a series 2, gave up in the end and spent ages trying to weld the old teabag that came with it.
Its OK but after been on and off a few times is starting to rust a bit. Hard to weld rust.
I would be interested in any supplier making them but want to try it for size first.

PS the rubber floor mats don't fit the raised hump either. I had to cut it and glue the middle part on the bridge. Hey Ho

What glue did you use on the floor mat as I've got to cut and reduce the width of the one I've got for an Indian GP,

[Monty]

I had some water proof double sided tape that we use at work to hold parts that are constantly immersed in photographic solution. Sticks Like a bugger, but not to the rubber mat. Its had 2 lots now and lasts a few months, sticks to the paint but not the rubber. At the weekend I used clear bathroom silicon as the edges had started to lift again. Hoping this works better. The outer floorboard ones are the cut away type and these lift off when the scoot is wet so I don't get rust under the mat.

[coaster]

I had some water proof double sided tape that we use at work to hold parts that are constantly immersed in photographic solution. Sticks Like a bugger, but not to the rubber mat. Its had 2 lots now and lasts a few months, sticks to the paint but not the rubber. At the weekend I used clear bathroom silicon as the edges had started to lift again. Hoping this works better. The outer floorboard ones are the cut away type and these lift off when the scoot is wet so I don't get rust under the mat.

You can buy an adhesive for repairing wet suits available from any watersports shop or maybe even a yoaught chandlers. That should stick it

[Monty]

I had some water proof double sided tape that we use at work to hold parts that are constantly immersed in photographic solution. Sticks Like a bugger, but not to the rubber mat. Its had 2 lots now and lasts a few months, sticks to the paint but not the rubber. At the weekend I used clear bathroom silicon as the edges had started to lift again. Hoping this works better. The outer floorboard ones are the cut away type and these lift off when the scoot is wet so I don't get rust under the mat.

You can buy an adhesive for repairing wet suits available from any watersports shop or maybe even a yoaught chandlers. That should stick it

Thanks Coaster. I think the rubber is not rubber (Its a Camlam mat) Its seems to be some form of silicon rubber very hard and shiny. The last time I used a form of rubber cement was for the panel rubbers
I had to respray the ruddy frame as it lifted the paint.

[sideout]

So, shall I make a rubber bridge piece and glue it on...........