Stuck cone bar

[sydduckett]

The steel rod in my engine mounts is seized/rusted solid and no matter how much i smash it its not going anywhere. tried twisting the engine/back wheel and still wont budge. i dont really want to get heat on there as its to near the paintwork if i can help it. im resigned to losing the engine mounts and am wary of cracking the lugs.....any suggestions welcome.

moral of this story if you clean your engine often avoid getting water on the mounts.....

[Andy Pickering]

Syd,

If you havent tried already,
Spray WD40 at each end on the engine bolt and try hard to get it in the thread,
Place socket on end with nut on and use the longest extension you can..maybe a long steel tube over the wrench and try turning until you get some movement..

soon as you do keep spraying and turning until it turns free..at this point it should extract,

you might well need a new engine bolt now though matey..

Have done this twice for mates scooters with success

[sydduckett]

Syd,

If you havent tried already,
Spray WD40 at each end on the engine bolt and try hard to get it in the thread,
Place socket on end with nut on and use the longest extension you can..maybe a long steel tube over the wrench and try turning until you get some movement..

soon as you do keep spraying and turning until it turns free..at this point it should extract,

you might well need a new engine bolt now though matey..

Have done this twice for mates scooters with success

Have tried the WD, but didnt really have a long eneough bar, will remedy that tomorrow...
ta.

[Andy Pickering]

I have a long length of scaff bar which i have used on occasions to remove brake caliper bolts from a cars that was well stuck on..


its about 6 foot long lol....

[RICSPEED]

breaker bars for halfords are a life saver

[corrado]

Have you got the nuts off?

[Supereibar]

I have a trick that never fails but be prepaired for hours of pain and hard work. First you need to get the two nuts off and leave AT LEAST one of them with good thread left. Next just fit a spacer and then fit the nut over the spacer. Tighten the nut and watch it proggressively get the bar out. It will take several hours and you will need many old bearings or similar as spacers but I was able to unlock an engine left next to the ocean for 40 odd years.

J.

[Monty]

I have a trick that never fails but be prepaired for hours of pain and hard work. First you need to get the two nuts off and leave AT LEAST one of them with good thread left. Next just fit a spacer and then fit the nut over the spacer. Tighten the nut and watch it proggressively get the bar out. It will take several hours and you will need many old bearings or similar as spacers but I was able to unlock an engine left next to the ocean for 40 odd years.

J.

This has worked for me but if you have mullered the end of the bar and mushroomed it over I would grind off a few mil of the threads. I used every ring spanner in the shed while looking for more spacers but once you get one end free its not to bad. At least you are putting constant pressure onto the silent block and not bashing hell out of the bolt and lug.

[sydduckett]

This is going to be a nightmare, i can just see it. to be honest i have to fit some new plates so will try and do both jobs over the xmas break. few light ales and get the boys in the garage for a few hours......and see how we go. will be looking at this thread again though.

A thought could you not run a small chane/groovel down the length of the rod allowing you to add wd at a later date?

[byron]

I have a trick that never fails but be prepaired for hours of pain and hard work. First you need to get the two nuts off and leave AT LEAST one of them with good thread left. Next just fit a spacer and then fit the nut over the spacer. Tighten the nut and watch it proggressively get the bar out. It will take several hours and you will need many old bearings or similar as spacers but I was able to unlock an engine left next to the ocean for 40 odd years.

J.

This has worked for me

and me, on my scooter, which was unlikely to have ever had the engine out in it's [at the time] 40 year life. definitely less stressful than bashing it with a hammer...

A thought could you not run a small chane/groovel down the length of the rod allowing you to add wd at a later date?

shouldn't be any need if it's greased up on assembly, and you don't point the jetwash at it...
[but groovel is a good word]