Hi all, I bled the brakes on the GP500 Sunday. The back one is fine but the front double disc was a real pain to do. All the air is out but the lever hits the grip. I think the piston in the Scootrs master cylinder is a little too small for two calipers. After a bit of reading on the web I need a master cylinder of 16-19mm instead of 13mm. Does anybody know of a Nissin master cylinder that will do the job and pick up on the same mounting holes ???
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:20 pm
by ForemanBob
The Honda CBR600 masters are good value, and the mountings are the same size, however the length of the body is 8.5cm vs the 6 or so of the CBR125 item normally fitted to a Lammy.
It will fit, but not so much wiggle room for the Hydraulic lines...
better view of the mounts on this one...
At £26 it should be worth a punt though.
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:16 pm
by T5-190
Thanks for the quick reply ForemanBob, thats what I love about this site. I'll get that one from E-bay.
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:56 pm
by newmanlammy
Ive got a Honda cbr600 one on my home brew twin front disk, not by choice purely because it came up at the rite price and at the rite time on ebay. I seam to remember having to fettle the bracket to fit my mount but it fits and works just fine, plenty of feel and plenty of stopping power. Its very difficult to chase air around the pipework on a twin disk, persue it a bit more before you change master cylinder. A good tip is to tape the brake lever tight back to the grip overnight then try beeding again next day, sometimes it allows the air to rise into the reservoir. Also try pressurising it upwards by filling from the bleed nipples with a shringe.
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:39 pm
by T5-190
newmanlammy wrote:Ive got a Honda cbr600 one on my home brew twin front disk, not by choice purely because it came up at the rite price and at the rite time on ebay. I seam to remember having to fettle the bracket to fit my mount but it fits and works just fine, plenty of feel and plenty of stopping power. Its very difficult to chase air around the pipework on a twin disk, persue it a bit more before you change master cylinder. A good tip is to tape the brake lever tight back to the grip overnight then try beeding again next day, sometimes it allows the air to rise into the reservoir. Also try pressurising it upwards by filling from the bleed nipples with a shringe.
Thanks newmanlammy, I'm sure all the air is out of the system now. The master cylinder is not pushing enough fluid I think. The brakes work fine but the lever is almost on the grip. I used an air/vacuum bleeder in the end from a mate. The CBR one seems a good choice and comes with a good spares back up and I can get a lever to match the PM tuning ones I bought for the Scootrs cylinder too. Thanks again guys.
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:49 pm
by T5-190
Well the CBR 600 master cylinder worked a real treat. It fitted with little fuss and I was able to use the PM Tuning lever too. Thanks to ForemanBob.
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:18 pm
by soulsurfer
Sorry to change the subject, but is that a matt textured powdercoat, you've used? If so, what's it called?
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:58 am
by T5-190
No worries soulsurfer, it is powder coat. The powder coaters did not to do all the fiddly parts so I bought myself a small home powder system.
Don't be fooled by the bag of powder only being a 1/2 kilo, I have powder coated about 400 parts and I still have some left. Most powder coaters offer fine textured black. If not, you could buy the powder and take it to your powder coaters to use.