12V DC Conversion with Battery - Wiring help needed, please!

[PRE0ATS]

I understand that by adding a battery to the DC conversion it means that the lights can remain active even if the engine stalls/cuts out (i.e. they continue to be powered by the battery), which is helpful if the engine dies on an unlit road at night and you still want to be visible.

However, to stop someone pratting around with the brake light, horn, and indicators when the Lammy is left parked up, can someone please advise the best way to connect up the loom, battery, and ignition switch so that the brake light, horn, and indicators aren't permanently live/active, even when the key is out of the ignition?

I have looked at various threads on here and all the wiring diagrams in Sticky's manual, but keep going round in circles (mainly due to the many different wiring approaches Innocenti, Serveta, and SIL appear to have adopted over the years!). I think that the only way I can isolate the brake light, horn, and indicators would be to feed these via the auxillary power wire from the ignition switch (usually a grey or purple wire on a standard Lammy ignition switch). Is this correct?

I intend to make my own custom loom using Thinwall cable from VWP, so that I can run the main power feed (from the battery/Wassel unit) direct to the headlight junction block, rather than via the brake switch and horn, and then feed everything from there.

For a bit of context/background, I have an Eibar S2 Winter to which I intend to add a key ignition switch (in place of the cut-out button) to control lights on/off and then use a late Indian GP traprazional light and indicator switch to control the high/low beam and the indicators, which I will be adding via a rear number plate embellisher and 2-pin flasher unit.

Apologies for the long thread, but hopefully all the info will help someone to help me!

A

[Craig H]

Speak to Byron on this forum hes the man(EADCM)

[sideout]

I used a battery isolator switch eg:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Battery-C ... 35b28ca1be

It can be hidden away somewhere out of the way, maybe toolbox, or under the seat?

I have airhorns on mine and it would be tempting for yoofs to play with them However, it also confused the MOT man, but that's another story




Hope this helps?

Nigel

[PRE0ATS]

I used a battery isolator switch eg:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Battery-C ... 35b28ca1be

It can be hidden away somewhere out of the way, maybe toolbox, or under the seat?

I have airhorns on mine and it would be tempting for yoofs to play with them However, it also confused the MOT man, but that's another story

Hope this helps?

Nigel

Thanks for that Nigel. I had thought about a battery isolator switch as a 'Plan B' if it couldn't be done via the ignition switch, but seeing your set up has helped convince me that would be a good solution.

I presume the isolator switch located on the wire feeding the battery and loom from the regulator/rectifier?

A

[mark]

the only thing that works on my series 1 with ignition off is the brake light but this is how i wanted it to be for safety purposes. byron did the business on it

[sideout]

I presume the isolator switch located on the wire feeding the battery and loom from the regulator/rectifier?

Yes, basically either in the positive or negative side will isolate the battery. Don't forget a fuse, I have a main fuse in the line as well as an ammeter.
The Wassel 12V conversion is excellent in my opinion especially when used with a battery, and thanks are due to all those who pioneered it!
That's sorted the electrics, the outboard disk brake makes it stop, spoilt for choice on the engine kits, carbs and exhausts. Just hope the EU doesn't come along and ruin it for everybody

[PRE0ATS]

Thanks for the input so far.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the ScootRS ignition, I was wondering if the red and black battery connections can be used to achieve what I want.

Has anyone used these connections on a ScootRS ignition and know if the black battery output is isolated by the ignition switch?

[byron]

the reason the horn and rear brake light work without the key is that power is taken to these on the way "up" to the switch, so don't have those spurs... It will mean additional wire running back down to them from the switched side of the ignition, but that's no thing if you're making a bespoke loom [and that's the best way].

the ScootRS switch can be used to isolate the battery, i use one to do that on my scooter
check with your meter, but iirc the red & black [not the black with the yellows] are only connected in the two "on" positions.

[PRE0ATS]

the ScootRS switch can be used to isolate the battery, i use one to do that on my scooter
check with your meter, but iirc the red & black [not the black with the yellows] are only connected in the two "on" positions.

Thanks Byron, I'll have a play with the ScootRS ignition, but it sounds like I'll be able to do waht I wanted - run the front and back lights through the usual 0, 1, and 2 positions of the ignition switch and the horn, brake light, and indicators (plus maybe a 12v socket) via the red and black battery connections (shown above on the ScootRS diagram), so nothing remains 'live' once the key is out

Once I've got everything sussed out, I'll post up my diy loom diagram in a separate topic, in case it's of use to anyone.

A

[byron]

think about having the charger socket live without the key, then you can use it when not riding...?