If i fit a reed valve to my 185 kit, how ( or rather where ) do i put the ports in the piston. What size should they be?
My guess is that they line up with the inlet port, but i dont fully understand how this works tbh.
Any advice gratefully recieved. :wtf:
reed valve
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coaster
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You would need to mark the position through the inlet port with the piston fitted to the rod. The idea is to achieve 360 degree of inlet opening. Cutting 3 mm off the inlet side of the piston skirt will help too. But your best bet woul be to read up on the theory first 
most of the good kits are reed valved, i know that if you stop the fuel spitting out there will be more fuel to burn, if there's more fuel there will be a bigger bang, a bigger bang should make more power provided it's ignited at the right time, it would be easy to buy a ready made kit but i have the reed valve and would like to use it but i'm led to believe the piston requires the port windows to utilise the modification best, and i would like to try this myself.Knowledge wrote:With the greatest respect Gee, if you don't understand how it works, why do you think that fitting a reed valve is good idea?
What problem do you have that you hope the reed valve will rectify?
I already run a vespa with a malossi kit and 60mm crank that doesn't have a reed, and it runs quite well, so i know that they're not required to build powerful engines.......but they help
coaster wrote:You would need to mark the position through the inlet port with the piston fitted to the rod. The idea is to achieve 360 degree of inlet opening. Cutting 3 mm off the inlet side of the piston skirt will help too. But your best bet woul be to read up on the theory first
Thanks coaster, thats the sort of response i was after. i understand the way the fuel and air is pulled in and pressurised and then pushed up the transfers to be compressed and ignited but cant fully visualise the way the ports in the piston help flow the fuel unless it's just creating a bigger area to get the fuel into the transfer area.