Timing problems

[Magalluf]

I have had a few problems of late so I decided to do the timing. I have rigged up a light as it says in stickys book with a 6v battery 6v bulb in a jet 200 bulb holder cables as explained but when I turn the flywheel around it always stays the same, it doesn´t get brighter or dimmer just the same. I turned the flywheel around so many times I had petrol driping down my arm from the open carb. So what can I do? Do I need to dismount the stator and look for an electrical fault it´s 6v with point by the way or is there another way to check.

Cheers

Steve

[firekdp]

Check with the lamp direct across the battery and compare this to the brightness that you get doing the test, then you will know which problem to look for.
If when doing the test the lamp remains at full brightness then either the points are not opening/insulated properly, the green wire is shorting to earth or the condensor is shorted.
If the lamp is permenantly dim the points aren't closing/making contact properly.

Sort out that petrol first though, you don't want any sparks around that.

[Magalluf]

I did as you said and the light is continuously dim, I also tried the light on my other bike and it worked perfectly so I presume the points aren`t closing properly, I´ll whip them out and have a look tomorrow. Thanks firekdp for the info

Steve

[joey]

...may be the points are not opening...? i use cigarette papers [rizla] open the points up to a gap 10-20thou" stick a piece of cig paper in torn to astrip 4mm wide close pionts on paper by turning flywheel anticlockwise slowly then slowly turn flywheel clockwise with a slite pull on paper when the points open the paper releases and this is your firing point...adjust points gap or move stater to suit simplesssss

[wack 63]

Thinking back to the 80's i seem to remember that the dimming is very hard to see as the points are effectively earthed all the time so the bulb never goes out.I think I used to use a 6v battery with a 12v bulb ,which was slightly easier to see dim especially if not looking directly at the bulb.As Joey says a fag paper is a far easier way to do it.

[dirtyhandslopez]

...may be the points are not opening...? i use cigarette papers [rizla] open the points up to a gap 10-20thou" stick a piece of cig paper in torn to astrip 4mm wide close pionts on paper by turning flywheel anticlockwise slowly then slowly turn flywheel clockwise with a slite pull on paper when the points open the paper releases and this is your firing point...adjust points gap or move stater to suit simplesssss

Has to be blue Rizla though, they are thinner and give a better reading. Those green ones or red ones are way to thick . Blue ones don't leave so much ash or change the taste either

[dapper]

There is a video on You Tube showing it being done

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVFlBe3H3O4

[J1MS]

You can use a sounder (horn) instead of a light it's change in tone is as the points open close

[Magalluf]

I have fixed the problew of the points now I have a new problem. If I turn the stator as far as I can to the left it shows about 30º and if I turn it as far as I can to the right it shows about 25º but the firing point should be at 19º so no mater what i do it is out. Any help please as I´m becoming very disillusioned.

Steve (still hot and sunny in Mallorca)

[paulski]

I have fixed the problew of the points now I have a new problem. If I turn the stator as far as I can to the left it shows about 30º and if I turn it as far as I can to the right it shows about 25º but the firing point should be at 19º so no mater what i do it is out. Any help please as I´m becoming very disillusioned.

Steve (still hot and sunny in Mallorca)

have you marked your t.d.c accurately. ????