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Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:11 am
by dapper
If anyone wants to make one, I'll measure up the dimensions and try and put up a drawing or pdf. or if you have any questions, fire away.

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:20 am
by soulsurfer
dapper wrote:If anyone wants to make one, I'll measure up the dimensions and try and put up a drawing or pdf. or if you have any questions, fire away.
I like the look of that first one, looks perfect for the job and based on the original principle too.
A drawing would be excellent, nice one, thanks for that ;)

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 1:07 pm
by joee
dapper wrote:If anyone wants to make one, I'll measure up the dimensions and try and put up a drawing or pdf. or if you have any questions, fire away.

yes please mate can you send me the details?
cheers

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 1:39 pm
by RICSPEED
it may be worth noting that design will only work with long type engine mounts ,is this correct?

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 1:41 pm
by battlam
is the hole big enough to fit an extractor in? Looks good to me ;)

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 1:43 pm
by RICSPEED
battlam wrote:is the hole big enough to fit an extractor in? Looks good to me ;)
you shouldnt need too mate you only need to hold fly wheel to get the nut off

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:15 pm
by dapper
Give me time to draw it up. I would advise that you need to measure twice and drill/tap once (as the old adage goes). The measurements I'll give are off my stator, so you'll need to double check the measurements against your own stator. You could drill and tap three holes if your stator has three windows, and you can still do this even on the two window tool so that your mate can use it, if you know what I mean. Make sure that there is no swarf/filings left that could get into your stator. Make sure that the tapped bolts do not foul on your pick up or coils, but do fit the windows correctly. You will have to check whether your stator has long fins or short, and use corresponding bolts of a suitable length. Yes, my scoot has long mounts, so don't know if it would work with short mounts, but you could bend the leg over at right angle so that it would bear against the short type mount/engine casing lug, but you'd need to make the leg a bit longer to do so. When using the tool, hold it flat against the fins of the flywheel, whilst using your socket/torque wrench to tighten/loosen the flywheel. As the other poster said, you only need the tool to loosen the centre left hand threaded nut. Once the nut is loose enough, remove the tool and then use the flywheel extractor. Simples. I used some old 5mm. plate I had lying around, but you could go as thin as 4mm. but I wouldn't advise any thinner. It may be possible to make it out of 5mm. or 6mm. ally plate for lightness, but not sure if the shear strength would be good enough. You can also drill out several holes once the tool is made to lighten it, as the stresses are lateral (!) if you know what I mean.

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:00 pm
by dapper
Right I've done a rough sketch and saved it as a pdf. but can't seem to upload it!! Help

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:09 pm
by RICSPEED
dapper wrote:Right I've done a rough sketch and saved it as a pdf. but can't seem to upload it!! Help
if you can attach to email pm me

Re: Toolbox Flywheel Holder

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:16 pm
by dapper
Well, here's the Mark 11 version. As stated, you can drill several holes to make it lighter, if you want. I used two 12mm. X 30mm. bolts which were just the right length for my stator. I also checked the torque rating of the clutch centre nut in Sticky's bible, against the torque setting for the flywheel nut, and they are almost the same. So you could use thinner plate, like 2mm. such as the clutch holding tools are made of, but you might have to put a nut against the other side of the plate to give some strength at that point, to stop the plate flexing when tightening/loosening. Make sure the centre hole is big enough to take your 17mm. socket with a bit spare. I've stated 25mm. which should be enough. Now get to your workshops, ya Feckers :lol: :lol: :lol:

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