Scooterotica

I rode 1650km`s to a rally this weekend and on the way up my rear hub loosened even though the retaining bolt on the washer had locktite used on it. I use normal black steel.

On the way home, one of my mates lost his rear hub about 100 miles after he checked his and landed in hospital with a multiple fractures, colorbone and hand. He was lucky that he got flung off his series 2 as the rear wheel left the rear of the scoot and went in a ditch instead of the oncomming lane.......

Why does this happen? I`m on my third hub in 2 years, A spanish one that cracked around the locking ring, an italian one that sheared its splines and the one I have now is indian and the cone surface is buggered.

Surely there must be a better way to fit these things?

I am giving this a bump and ask where to buy a diecent hub and rear hub bearing.

I'm beginning to think this is the safest option... http://lambretta.co.uk/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=3472

The hub when new has no paint on the inside face, especially where the cone sits against the hub.
Some of the hubs that I have seen come loose have been on recent restorations where the hub has been either sand blasted or painted, or both.
The paint prevents the metal to metal contact that's needed, and when they have been sand blasted the blast media roughens the surface reducing the contact between the surfaces and sometimes there is still embeded blast material left on the hub which again helps the hub work loose against the cone.
Some engines are just rebuilt with oil or grease contaminating the cone and hub and layshaft.
Maybe not what's happened to yours, but just thought I would mention some of what I've seen where this has happened.

Hmm.

The first 2 were both powder coated but not in the lockring area. The last was untouched.

Is there a way to fit the rear hub with, say a pin like on vespa`s?

Do you mean use castle nut with a split pin through the layshaft,will this work?

the lockring will not hold the hub if the cone mating surfaces are not good!if the cone is good you will not need to use a lock ring!
regards
joe

silly question i know but have you torqued the rear hub nut up to the recommended figure? i use the MB figure from Sticky's book and have not had any issues with either SIL or UNI hubs.......could just be dodgy cones!

just to add to this one,my hub came loose on the way back from brid on the m62,the hub was a decent innocenti one that i had,with cone.i stopped when i felt the scoot going slower,when i looked the shoes were near enough on fire,glowing embers dropping out of the back of the hub!!!!
managed to get home (about another 20 miles),when i stripped the hub the splines had gone,but the hub nut was very suspect,the lock ring didnt seem to cover the flats on the nut.
anyway,got a uni hub and lock ring kit from mb,bang on now. check your nuts!!!!

when something is plasted or even just with age stress builds up in the metal and failure happens so what you need to get done is get your parts shot peened afterwards and it takes the stress out of it less cracks and failures and longer life