Yes, it's a really good start, but I would like to know the opinion of someone who has done it.hungdog wrote:Try this http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=317
PX200 + longstroke + malossi set up info needed
I've done it on mine and was very pleased with the results.santacama wrote:Yes, it's a really good start, but I would like to know the opinion of someone who has done it.hungdog wrote:Try this http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=317
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santacama
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hungdog wrote:I've done it on mine and was very pleased with the results.santacama wrote:Yes, it's a really good start, but I would like to know the opinion of someone who has done it.hungdog wrote:Try this http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=317
That is nice to know :bouncing: . Did you do the exhaust mod for 221?
I did the modifications as described on the german site.
My setup is different, so your results may vary, but I think that it matters with the mods.
I have a normal stroke length mazz crank that has been cut at the web to increase induction timing. I have a lathed cylinder head, squish is 1.2mm, as mine was installed before they offered these. I use an unbanded cosa with stronger springs, without issue, and switched to the efl transmission from the previous. I tried the T5 fourth gear, found it to be short, so I went back to the stock fourth, and rev it out in third to get it to go on from there.
I tig welded meat onto the case to make the transfers match up better. I think that the results are that it breathes nicer this way. I used a JL left exit pipe, until I dented it up. I am now on a sito+ until I get a better pipe. I am currently testing the parmakit ignition. My review on this is positive. It lowered the high rev temps nicely, as confirmed with an egt. It also punched up the low end torque, something that the malossi kits lack. The lighter flywheel is a little tricker to set at idle, but not bad. As long as it outputs juice to charge my battery, I'll be happy.
I wish I had gone long stroke, maybe someday...
My setup is different, so your results may vary, but I think that it matters with the mods.
I have a normal stroke length mazz crank that has been cut at the web to increase induction timing. I have a lathed cylinder head, squish is 1.2mm, as mine was installed before they offered these. I use an unbanded cosa with stronger springs, without issue, and switched to the efl transmission from the previous. I tried the T5 fourth gear, found it to be short, so I went back to the stock fourth, and rev it out in third to get it to go on from there.
I tig welded meat onto the case to make the transfers match up better. I think that the results are that it breathes nicer this way. I used a JL left exit pipe, until I dented it up. I am now on a sito+ until I get a better pipe. I am currently testing the parmakit ignition. My review on this is positive. It lowered the high rev temps nicely, as confirmed with an egt. It also punched up the low end torque, something that the malossi kits lack. The lighter flywheel is a little tricker to set at idle, but not bad. As long as it outputs juice to charge my battery, I'll be happy.
I wish I had gone long stroke, maybe someday...
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santacama
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- Location: Sevilla (Spain)
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I'm trying to figure out how to properly install the 60 mm crank.
Mods to the piston are obvious .... no problem. But when we come to the issue of timing is another matter.
It appears that the exhaust port proposed in the German forum, is designed to use a gasket under the cylinder of 1.5 mm. In this way I would not have to touch the original exhaust port at the top, because if we respect the 32 mm (Original Malossi 210) to the top of the barrel, the exhaust timing is about 188 degrees (60 mm crank), as they say. Also in this way the line crossing the top of the intake ports will match with its measures.
I guess then that I will have to enlarge the exhaust port 3mm in the lower part to match it with the piston crown at BDC, right?
What about the intake ports, Do I have to make them match the piston crown at BDC?
Mods to the piston are obvious .... no problem. But when we come to the issue of timing is another matter.
It appears that the exhaust port proposed in the German forum, is designed to use a gasket under the cylinder of 1.5 mm. In this way I would not have to touch the original exhaust port at the top, because if we respect the 32 mm (Original Malossi 210) to the top of the barrel, the exhaust timing is about 188 degrees (60 mm crank), as they say. Also in this way the line crossing the top of the intake ports will match with its measures.
I guess then that I will have to enlarge the exhaust port 3mm in the lower part to match it with the piston crown at BDC, right?
What about the intake ports, Do I have to make them match the piston crown at BDC?
couple pics here
http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=6869621.jpg
http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=6869622.jpg
Maybe this weekend i can try to start my vespa, eager to find out how / if it works, in case it wont, i have few bottless of whisky next to it waiting..
http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=6869621.jpg
http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=6869622.jpg
Maybe this weekend i can try to start my vespa, eager to find out how / if it works, in case it wont, i have few bottless of whisky next to it waiting..
I decided to go for Vespatronic ignition. Now i just have to figure the wiring... I have to make whole wiring loom from beginning. Anyone knows where to find right conversion wiring diagram.
Px200 engine (no battery) + Vespatronic fitted to 1962 VBB1T Vespa and like I said i have to do the whole wiring, got nothing left from original wires.
Any help is welcome.
Px200 engine (no battery) + Vespatronic fitted to 1962 VBB1T Vespa and like I said i have to do the whole wiring, got nothing left from original wires.
Any help is welcome.
Beedspeed do looms to suit for less than the hassle of doing it yourself.
http://beedspeed.com/product_info.php?c ... ts_id=3775
Nice work on the engine but what about the lost cooling air because of the reedvalve?
http://beedspeed.com/product_info.php?c ... ts_id=3775
Nice work on the engine but what about the lost cooling air because of the reedvalve?
Thanks, but im still looking for wiring diagram, believe it or not, i want to do it by myself.
For the cooling, i have modified cylinder cowl which fixes this problem .
For the cooling, i have modified cylinder cowl which fixes this problem .
First try outs done, it works, but have to do lots of fine tuning
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqNGoQFM6ro
more vids later
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqNGoQFM6ro
more vids later